Helensburgh CC

Paddlers:  Hugh, Ken, Geoff and Liz

Location

The Datca peninsula is in South West Turkey and projects westward from the Marmaris area for about 80 miles. The peninsula is wild and beautiful and exposed to the dominant wind system of the Aegean known as the Etesian or Meltemi wind. This runs from the West every afternoon at between force 3 and 5  and any progress into it is extremely slow.

Our route took us from the village of Akyaka at the top of the Gulf of Gokova, west along the north coast of the peninsula, round the point at the ancient ruined city of Knidos and back eastward to Datca.

Because  of the wind we had to stop most days in the early afternoon, which in turn led to early morning departures. The total route length was 174km, 108 miles.

Weather

We had it hot and sunny except for the last morning which was overcast. The wind, however, kept us cool when paddling and the nights, although hot by UK standards, were tolerable.

Day 1

A slight mistake by one of our party who picked up the wrong bag, and a rather excellent fish sandwich and beer  lunch delayed departure by a couple of hours. This led to our first experience of the Meltemi wind and the battle to make progress westward in the afternoon. We eventually found a pleasant camp site just as the light was failing for our first night.

Distance Covered  6.5km 4mi

Day 2

To counter the lack of progress we agreed on a 7.30am departure. At the time we did not realise that dawn was at 7.15 and breakfast would be in the dark. However all went well and we were out on a flat calm sea by 7.25. 

Our first stop was Sedir Island, the site of the ancient ruined city of Cedrae. This was the location of the summer palace of the Kings of Caria and contains the impressive ruins of an outdoor theatre dating around 200 BC. There is also a beautiful golden yellow limestone beach which tradition states was a gift to Cleopatra from Mark Antony.

A 90 min break for culture and coffee put back the schedule and by 12.00 the Meltemi had begun. By 2.30 we were seeking shelter. There was a short interlude for diving to recover a dropped flask perfectly visible at a depth of 10m and then on to Ali’s Bar for a relaxing afternoon and evening.

Distance Covered 25.4km 15.8mi

Day 3

Another early start with dawn just breaking. Flat calm, a heat haze and utter beauty. A long, sunny day with the breeze gradually increasing. Some long stretches of open water as we cut from headland to headland to try to get back on schedule. Finally, as the wind became just too strong for pleasure a lovely camp site under an olive tree, an excellent fire and another bottle of wine.

Distance Covered 32.2km 20mi

Day 4 

Another glorious day. Initial calm and haze becoming hot and windy. Lovely scenery and empty beaches. Conscious of a poor forecast (high wind) later in the week  (which could prevent us rounding the peninsula) we pushed on. The sea was notably rough in final section past the terminal of the Datca-Bodrum ferry. This was rather like some of the terminals in Scotland with nothing there except the admin buildings – and, of course, the sun.

With little progress because of the wind we found a surprisingly good site a few metres up a small cliff with masses of drift wood for another excellent fire.

Distance Covered 33.7km 20.9mi

Day 5

A pre-dawn start with Liz and Geoff on the water at 7.15.

As we progressed west the cliff scenery became more rugged and beaches less frequent. 

At our mid morning break we were joined by a fisherman picking herbs who showed us a set of steps cut in the rock dated around 500BC, not unusual in this part of the world.

We pushed on, anxious to round the critical Knidos headland before the afternoon wind. We stopped for a quick lunch in a small cave and then on.

The headland itself was extremely lumpy with water apparently coming from all directions. Luckily the wind was still relatively light and the boats extremely stable but rescue practice in rough water is definitely a need!

By 2.30 we were in the cafe at Knidos having a well earned beer. Knidos is an extremely important site of an ancient Hellenic City. The area is covered with the ruins of the city which reached its zenith in around 400BC. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knidos gives details.

After three expensive beers each for the guys and a sightseeing tour by Liz we finally determined there was no resting place at the city and set out in high spirits and a very brisk cross wind. A very bouncy half hour brought us to our fifth camp site; the beach.

Distance 33.5km, 20.8mi

Day 6

With the pressure off, the next two days were much more relaxed. The scenery however remained quite spectacular with a couple of huge sea caves.

The camp site was probably the best of the whole trip being the restaurant garden, grass and adjacent toilets/shower. As with all such sites it came free with the meal.

Distance Covered 21.9km 12.9mi

Day 7

A phone call with Dean elicited the information that Day 7 was to be a “bad” day with rain and high winds. As a result there was just a little pressure to round the final headland before the wind struck. As it turned out the wind never exceeded force 4 and the rain never appeared, although the morning was overcast and threatening.

The highlights of the final day was another huge sea cave, one of the worst lunch spots and the final beers in Datca.

 After meeting, washing, changing and loading we were on our way for the 3.5hr journey to the airport, broken by an excellent and cheap meal. Then after the statutory airport delays we were set for the 4.5hr journey back to Glasgow and home by 3.30am. An excellent trip.

Further Information

We flew Glasgow to Dalaman with Thomas Cook. We found, last year, that the cheapest way is to purchase a self catering package as  a) this is cheaper than the flight only b) provides a first night accommodation and c) provides transfer on arrival. We did not use 6 nights accommodation and the return transfer. Cost with parking at the airport came to around £380 each.

Kayak Equipment and transfer to/from the start/end points was provided by Dean Livesey of Seven Capes www.sevencapes.com. Canoe Equipment (Wilderness Sea Kayaks) is £20 per day. With transfers we paid £205 each.

We took lightweight camping gear and food for the whole trip. At the start we purchased some bread and fruit and 14 litres of water each. There were no shops en route.

Total cost £755 including purchased food and drinks for lunches, coffee/beer, 1 restaurant lunch and 3 restaurant dinners.

Paddlers: Hugh, Seylan, Myles, Jamie and Fraser

Route: Helensburgh Greenock and vv

Report: On October 31st   the coastguard at Greenock  will close  leaving emergency service for the  west coast of Scotland to be co-ordinated from Belfast and Stornoway.  To recognise the significance of this action (and protest against it) ships and boats congregated and used the opportunity to release out of date flares. The club group, armed with flares, organised a night paddle across in a brisk Force 4 which made an interesting return journey. Following are a few of the spectacualr photos taken by Seylan

Paddlers: Seylan, Hugh, Geoff

Route: Lendalfoot -Ailsa Craig and Back

Report: The weather forecast was fantastic; flat calm and sun. Ideal, we thought, for the crossing to one of the big challenges for sea kayakers,  Ailsa Craig. The rock, situated in the middle of the entrance to the Clyde is 10 miles from the Ayrshire coast and around 15 miles to Arran and Kintyre. Journey time was estimated at 2.5 hours.

The first indication that we would not enjoy the promised flat calm were the flags flying straight. Either they were very light nylon or it was breezy. The white flecks on the sea suggested the latter and so it proved with a force 3 from the west throughout the day generating a significant quartering swell to paddle into on the way out and generate a tense trip back.

A terrible journey down (traffic jam on the M8 , lost in Irvine and lost in Girvan) meant a much later depart time  than planned but an excellent parking spot and beach was found just north of Lendalfoot.

 At 11.20 we were off and for the next two and a half hours paddled into the breeze, the rock on the horizon slowly growing into a sizeable and substantial island, with shear rock faces rearing up to 320m (1000ft). The time passed quite quickly as the chop provided interesting paddling and after 2hrs 40 minutes we were standing on the island.

The island itself is well worth a visit. A tramway runs up from a shingle/boulder beach and splits with one branch to the old curling stone works and the other to the lighthouse complex, now fully automated.

Just under half way up the mountain is a small ruined castle, reached by a precipitous path up the face of the crag. The tower is surprisingly well preserved. The views to the east are spectacular. We can only imagine the views from the summit as we did not have time to make the whole climb.

With a target return time of 7pm, by 4.30 we were heading back to the boats, leaving around 4.40. With the breeze behind us we thought we might be significantly faster but in the lumpy conditions time had to be spent on support and correcting strokes. Thus the return took only 10 minutes less at 2hrs 30 mins.

None of our photos catch the size of the swell; try taking your hands off the paddle when being chased by a wave. Again the time passed quckly because of the interest generated by the sea conditions. Whilst not  frightening there was always a need to focus.

By 7.30 we were packed up and Girvan bound for a much needed drink and food. A really good day.

July 18th:

Paddlers: Hugh, Geoff, Douglas, James, Oliver

Route: Craigendoran, Ardmore, Cardross, Greenock, Craigendoran.

Weather: Rain, Light Easterly Breeze

Report: The sort of evening when sensible men seek shelter from the rain can sometimes  be near perfect for kayaking. So it proved with a trip east to Cardross on an incoming tide that allowed us well in to the village.  A noticeable feature of the return was the tide, which was noticeable. A good evening.

July 25th 

Paddlers: Ruth, Jim, Geoff, Bill, Sam, Oliver,Damian,Stella, Ross and Hugh

Route: Coulport, Ardentinny Village, Ardentinny Beach, Coulport

Weather: Calm and Bright.

Report: A well attended paddle across Loch Long. Ideal for beginners, the main interest was the slight swell and the paranoid police patrolling the unmarked “exclusion” zone and the road. A strange night.

Paddlers: Geoff, Jamie,Ruth , Ken and Hugh

Route: The original trip had been for the Treshnish Isles but a forecast of high winds for the Tuesday led to this more sheltered trip along the north coast of Ardnumurchan.

Day 1: Loch Ailort fills and empties with some force. Given the tide timings, the sensible option  was to go with the flow rather than against it and start in Loch nan Uamh returning to Loch Ailort. Cars were then strategically arranged to enable such a route.  Weather was overcast with occasional showers and some breeze but nothing to worry. Scenery, as ever, was staggering both forward to Eigg, Muck and Rum and behind over the mountainous mainland.

The beaches on the trip were superb; beautiful, sandy coves fringed by rock and forest.

After lunch we investigated a”vitrified” fort on Eilean nan Gour at the entrance of Loch Ailort. Vitrification is the melting of rock in a wall to fuse the elements together, a process which is almost impossible to reproduce and consequently quite rare.

The island itself is bounded on all sides by precipitous gneiss rocks; it is the abode and nesting place of numerous sea birds. The flat surface on the top is 120 feet from the sea level, and the remains of the vitrified fort are situated on this, oblong in form, with a continuous rampart of vitrified wall five feet thick, attached at the SW end to a large upright rock of gneiss. The space enclosed by this wall is 420 feet in circumference and 70 feet in width. The rampart is continuous and about five feet in thickness. At the eastern end is a great mass of wall in situ, vitrified on both sides. In the centre of the enclosed space is a deep depression in which are masses of the vitrified wall strewed about, evidently detached from their original site.

In reality the views are more impressive than the fort!

From the island we headed west towards the mountainous island of Shona and entered Loich Moidart via the North Channel. Possibly the best campsite we have ever found was located on an islet just to the south of Shona, offering flat pitches, plentiful wood and wonderful views. The slight breeze kept all the midge life away. An excellent and convivial evening for all. (24km, 15mi)

Day 2: Castle Tioram, just 0.5km from the campsite, was the first port of call.

The gospel according to Wikipedia reads as follows:

” Castle Tioram is a ruined castle that sits on the tidal island Eilean Tioram in Loch Moidart, Lochaber, Highland, Scotland. It is located west of Acharacle, approximately 80 kilometres from Fort William. Though hidden from the sea, the castle controls access to Loch Shiel. It is also known to the locals as “Dorlin castle”

The castle is the traditional seat of the Clan MacDonald of Clan Ranald, a branch of Clan Donald. Castle Tioram was seized by Government forces around 1692 when Clan Chief Allan of Clanranald joined the Jacobite Court in France, despite having sworn allegiance to the British Crown. A small garrison was stationed in the Castle until the Jacobite Uprising of 1715 when Allan recaptured and torched the castle, purportedly to keep it out of the hands of the Hanoverian forces. It has been unoccupied since that time, although there are some accounts suggesting it was partially inhabited thereafter including storage of firearms from the De Tuillay in the 1745 Jacobite Uprising and Lady Grange’s account of her kidnapping.

The castle is now in extremely poor condition and in 1998 was closed to the public at the request of Highland Council; a major structural collapse occurred at the north west curtain wall in 2000.

Controversial proposals to restore the castle by the new owners, Anta Estates, were announced in 1997 and received planning consent from Highland Council. This included the creation of a clan centre/museum, domestic apartments, and public access. However, Historic Scotland refused Scheduled Monument Consent – a decision upheld after a local public inquiry.“

The castle is well-preserved but clearly degenerating and maintenance desperately needed.

Despite the usual Danger signs, access is easy and rather precipitous ladders take you up to the top. The view is fantastic.

From the castle we headed north east down the south channel to the sea then east. The wind was increasing to force 4/5 from the south east which gave a bouncy ride as the kayaks were hit side on by the surf.

At Elgadale,  a pleasant isolated beach  just around the headland, a long lunch  was taken.

Decision making was becoming more difficult. Every mile west with the strong wind was a mile back against the wind. We carried on for another 5 or so km before turning back into the wind, which increased as we turned directly into it and headed for the beaches at the top of the loch.

Once again we found an excellent site on the machair just behind the “Singing Sands” of  Ardtoe.  Singing is rather poetic; a bit squeaky would be more accurate.

An excellent fire was made but periodic bouts of rain eventually led to retirement to tents at 9pm whilst still light.  (22km (14.5mi))

Day 3: The wind had eased and the midges appeared, although nothing like the previous trip to Knoydart. Just after 9pm we were away to our first port of call at the township of Ardtoe.

From Ardtoe we headed north with a light backing breeze across the cliffs to the west of Shona and on to the point “Rubha Ghead a’ Leighe”.  At this point a pod of 4 dolphins were playing, a real first for some group members.

20 minutes with the dolphins and then on to the village of Glenuig. The hotel here has become the most important centre for Sea Kayaking in Scotland. The owner, Steve Macdonald runs Sea Kayaking, Arisaig and the hotel is used by Wilderness Scotland and Discover Sea Kayaking as their base. In winter the clientele is boosted by a number of kayak clubs on weekend trips with a warm shower, bar and bed for the long nights.

The great disadvantage is the tide goes out miles. Even after lunch and a pint we waited another 30 minutes to allow the water in a hundred or so metres. We then headed off for the final 13km to Lochailort.

The incoming tide provided a helpful boost and we were back by 4.30pm. (27km, 16.5mi)

It was another really good trip in fantastic surroundings. We viewed seal, otters and eagles as well as the dolphins and the campsites were excellent. This area from Morar round to the Ardnumurchan Point, including the Small Isles, is undoubtedly one of the very best places for Sea Kayaking in the World. Without any major effort a total of 73km (45miles) was covered.