Helensburgh CC

Paddlers: David, Innes, Sue, Alan, Jamie, Douglas, Geoff

Objective: A circumnavigation of Lismore

Saturday: The day started well with all paddlers at the Ganavan Beach, 2 miles north of Oban, before 10am. This is a excellent start point with a large shallow sandy beach and excellent parking (£2 per day).The weather was breezy mostly overcast but with occasional breaks. We had opted for Ganavan to make best use of tide and wind and so it proved. There was a big swell driven by a Force4 and it made for interesting paddling.

Our first stop was for the Lismore Broch. Brochs are large circular towers with a hollow wall. They are found only in Scotland and are thought to be around 2000 years old. The Lismore Broch is well worth a visit if only for the stunning views.

We pushed on northwards with the weather becoming more and more threatening. Around the point we decided to camp at the site just at the point. However when we arrived we found another group of 14 erecting tents. After some discussion we decided to push on and try and find an alternative. In retrospect it was a blessing for the next bay not only contained flat (tish) ground but a wood supply (albeit difficult to access) in the surrounding woodlands. As the evening got increasingly wet, the fire proved the highlight.

Sunday: After a very wet evening the next morning dawned dry and bright. The view from the site was excellent with Glensanda prominent on the Morvern shore.  As agreed we made an early start (8.10) to catch the south flowing tide aiming to reach the southernmost point at 12.30; slack water.

The next stop was the spectacular Coefin Castle (ruins).

The weather was constantly improving as we headed south. The headwind was dropping to negligible, the sun came out and dolphins/porpoise came to play. Seals looked on expectantly and an otter stopped and stared.  The cliffs revealed caves and gashes; this was what one hoped for.

After a break for inspection of yet another castle (Adachurn) and lunch we headed on for the point. As we reached the point at peak low water, there were two linked questions; 1)  can we get through behind the lighthouse island? 2) Do we want to if we can?. In the end we decided that round the light was more exciting and the gap probably does exist even at low tide.

The final decision was whether to paddle the 9k directly back to Ganavan or travel up the coast and jump across the islands. The direct route was chosen and some 1.5 hours after setting off we reached the beach.  Another excellent trip.

Paddlers: Euan, Jamie, Geoff, Jim, Mark

Weather: Grey, cool but calm

Report: We met at the car park just north of Cove. The initial crossing was to the pier at Blairmore. It is sad that there is no service to the pier after spending quite considerable sums to rejuvenate it. With the closure of the hotels at Carrick Castle and Ardentinny and no water service the  future looks rather bleak for this part of Argyll and Bute.

We then headed north, passing the “new” wreck, landing just past the caravan park at Ardentinny for a quick break.

The uneventful last leg was  straight back across the loch to complete a 10 mile circuit.

River Leven: Thursday 20th.

Paddlers (13) : Euan, Alex, Cory, Ross,  Adam, Michael, Oliver, Nat, Robin, Adele, Gregor, Grant, Geoff

Report: A good turnout on a dullish evening did the annual trip down the Leven. This year the flow was quite limited and in the lower reaches was completely negated by the incoming tide. As a consequence we took almost 2hr 30 mins. However there was enough water for an enjoyable experience and the rain held off.

Loch Lomond Saturday 22nd/Sunday 23rd

Paddlers (14): Cory, Ross,  Adam, Michael, Nat, Robin, Gregor, Grant, Stewart, Hannah , Eleanor, Stuart, Rachel, Geoff

Report: The weather forecast was not great with heavy rain and very strong winds on the Sunday. More than one person was expecting cancellation but, because of the relatively sheltered nature of the planned trip the decision was made to continue. Consequently the group gathered at 2pm and after the usual problems of beginners fitting their gear into boats, we set off for Inchconnachan for a wallaby hunt.

At the normal site the group split. Stewart, Geoff and Eleanor were lucky enough to spot one in the dense undergrowth, purely because it moved as we approached. There is one in the next photo.

Despite the cloud cover it was dry and the views, as usual were fantastic

The weather stayed dry as we rounded InchConnachan and headed for our camp site on Inchvannach.

On arrival tents were pitched, barbeques lit and a fire built and lit.  Nat and Robin erected their Gazebo which proved very popular when the rain arrived. Stewart and Geoff, meanwhile, erected a conical shelter over the fire.

After food Geoff, Stewart and Eleanor had a short trip to pick up Hannah. During this trip it began to rain very heavily and continued off and on throughout the evening and night. Despite the wet and because it was becoming horribly midgy,  most went out for an evening paddle getting back just as the light started to fail at 10.30. A late swim was undertaken by some. All had retreated to their tents by midnight.

The Sunday morning was bright and quite dry but blustery. We cooked breakfast and were off soon after 10am

The paddle up through the narrows was fine but we exited straight into a north westerly wind blowing around force 4, occasionally gusting much higher. It was an important lesson that kayaking can be a challenge and that the Loch can be a very dangerous and unforgiving place. However all coped well (if slowly).

Because the wind was expected to increase during the day we had arranged to finish at 11am and duly got to Ardlochlay at 11.10. An excellent weekend.

Paddlers: Geoff, Hugh and Jamie

Day1/2. Taransay

We left Ard Asaig, a couple of miles west of Tarbet, at about 11.30 having caught the morning boat from Uig and over-nighted in a camp site by the ferry port at Uig. The weather was as forecast, cold and windy with the cloud almost down to the loch. The initial paddle to the lunch break on Isay was quite tough but after lunch we hit the main swell and force 5 winds. Just as we were contemplating retreat we spotted a rock beach and landed, hoping for the weather to ease. It did not and a tent was pitched for shelter. A shelter wall, firewood and a fire followed and by the time the wind eased (7pm) we had given up any idea of further progress.

Sunday morning was overcast and breezy but the crossing to Taransay appeared on. After a difficult launch as we made our way out between a wave break and the shore a large otter appeared, stared and disappeared.

Taransay was featured in the BBC series Castaway in which 30 people were landed on a deserted island for a year. The identified objective was to observe the development of a community.  The island is large, relatively fertile and has some beautiful sand beaches. Sheep are grazed over the whole island and there are a couple of summer holiday houses. All round it appears to be a very pleasant place.

Objective achieved we crossed to another lovely surf beach for lunch (nice bouncy entry and exit) and then back via Isay to the car for part 2 of the trip.

Day 3/4/5 Loch Roag 

Wild camping from the car was surprisingly difficult, but, after an hour driving around and a trip to Callanish Stone Circle  we found a lovely picnic site above a wonderful surf beach just north of Carloway.

Our launch site was back towards Callanish. From here we headed out for a circuit of Great Bernera.

Noticeable features of this area were the population of Great Bernera (apparently “cleared”  from the mainland in the 1870s), the extensive fish and mussel farms and the stunning sand beaches. Possibly the best of them was our lunch stop on Little Bernera.

After lunch we rounded the headland and into the sizeable Atlantic Swell. From there we headed to the channel between Great and Little Bernera before landing on yet another golden beach. The main interest at this beach was an Iron Age village which had lain undiscovered under a layer of sand until recently. A feature is a reconstructed house which, unfortunately was closed.

Iron Age House

 After some debate a rock beach on the island of Floddaigh suggested a possible place for the night. As we left we were drawn towards a basking shrk that had apparently been in the area all afternoon. We were lucky enough to get a close inspection of the fish whose length was around 20ft.

Floddaigh was the nesting place for thousands of sea birds and care had to be taken not to tread on nests and newly born chicks. There was however a mass of wood, flat ground and a stunning sunset.

The clear sky of the previous evening augured well for Tuesday. The first objective was the famous (among  keen sea kayakers) Pabbaigh Mor. As we approached a dolphin/porpoise decided to play in front of us.

The island proved to live up to its reputation. The first feature is a large sea cave but this was of minor interest compared to the stunning natural arch.

The photos were taken at a quiet period. In fact the big swell at times generated a very exciting experience! We next sought out the entrance of the lagoon but after entering what looked like the entrance we decided the tide was probably too low so we opted for the south entrance. En route was a “gap” , confused and treacherous in the big swell. After a long period of contemplation sense won over challenge and we went round outside and then into the lagoon.

After the tumult outside the lagoon was amazing, with three lovely sand beaches and completely quiet water. It  also had a wide north entrance that we had missed.

We then decided to investigate the sand beach just 3km away at Camas Cliobh. This beach was totally open to the Atlantic so we expected some surf, but it appeared from the sea to be relatively small and canoeable. This was not the case. All of us were turned and Geoff ended up on the sand upside down.

We then spent the next 30 minutes trying to work out how best to get out. The shape, frequency and power of the surf and the resulting shape of the beach made exit problematic. Just as the kayak floated  it was hit by a wave, turned, filled with water and beached. What was required was a young flexible paddler who could get into the kayak after the initial wave break. Our hero was Jamie who towed the old men past the first break to allow them to escape and then managed to get his boat clear” and use the keyhole cockpit to get in. Once past the surf line his kayak was  pumped out and we were all clear.

After the excitement we paddled on the the township of Bhaltos which offered a telephone box and campsite in the way of services and two more glorious sand beaches.

The ideal campsite has a sand beach, flat turf immediately adjacent, good views and a wood supply. Unfortunately the first and last are very rare and we put the fire as a higher priority than soft entry and exit. So we choose the island of Fuaigh Beag for our final camp., a very satisfactory choice.

The final morning was a quick paddle across the east side of Great Bernera under the bridge. and we reached the launch site at around 11pm. Sadly we found a side window had been smashed, possibly by a stone from the road. We suspect the police do not really believe this either but, in any case, they were extremely helpful and found us an autoglass agent who immediately fitted a temporary window for th long journey home. If it was deliberate the locals in Stornoway certainly tried to make up for the sins of their brethren and we safely caught the 4pm ferry from Tarbet. It was a beautiful crossing.

With wonderful weather the route back must be the most glorious drive in the UK. crossing/passing  five wonderful mountain ranges; The Harris Hills, The Cuillins,  Glen Shiel, Ben Nevis and the Grey Corries and finally Glencoe. IT was a fitting end to an excellent trip.

Paddlers: Jamie, David, Innes and Geoff

Weather: Very, very windy on Saturday. Sea Fog on Sunday.

Report: The forecast was perfect; Northerly force 4 to 5 to blow us down on the south flowing tide to the Garvellachs followed by a strong to gale force wind with rain when we were safely tucked up in bed. On Sunday a calm sea with a strong north flowing tide to take us back to Easdale. However nobody told Boreas and when we arrived at Easdale it was blowing 6 to 7 possibly 8.  A strategic withdrawal was the only option and the new plan involved a sheltered trip down Seil Sound and then, with the wind forecast to strengthen (!), a paddle along Loch Melfort looking for the perfect sheltered camp site. And that is what we did

The site was almost perfect being flat, well sheltered and with an excellent wood supply. An excellent evening was had until the rain started at about 11.

Before turning in we had hatched a cunning plan to start early to catch the tide at Cuan Sound and at Belnahua and so at 5am we were up and by 6.15, having breakfasted we were afloat. The wind had completely disappeared and was replaced by a thick wet sea fog. The calm and quiet was ethereal.

Approaching Cuan

The passage behind Torsa was deep and flowing and the tide shifted us on at 3 knots plus our own speed through Cuan Sound and out into the Sound of Luing. By keeping close into shore we were able to easily paddle in the eddy caused by the Cuan outfall down to Cullipool.

Visibility varied from poor to none and we were worried about missing Belnahua as we got into the strong tides, so we decided to head south behind the skerries and then follow the islands out NE. As we got towards Fladda we were all suprised at the size of the flow and the multiple directions as it past Fladda

Belnahua is one of the two Slate Islands. It was quarried until the First World War when demand and cost associated with continuous pumping to keep the pits dry from rampaging storms led to its evacuation. The legacy of ruined buildings, flooded quarries and slate waste combined with the mist provided an eery spectacle

From Belnahua we headed by compass course set to get close to land as quickly as possible but avoiding the tumble of water from Cuan Sound. As soon as we got visibility we turned and headed for Easdale, the second of the Slate Islands. Unlike Belnahua, Easdale Island has a thriving economy with a pub/restaurant, museum and village hall.  On Easdale we met Andy Warrender who last year circumnavigated Tasmania and this year is attempting the crossing to Norway. He had offered us a lift to Clachan but advised paddling it round the west and north sides; advice that was taken.

As it turned out this was some of the best kayaking of the weekend with a substantial swell and superb cliff scenery with arches, caves and little inlets.

The time from Easdale back to Clachan was expected to be 1.5 hrs but we managed it in 70 minutes without any hurry.

By 4.00 we were packed up and in the pub for a well deserved drink after a super weekend.

Distances: Saturday 12km.  Sunday 31km

Paddlers:

Route:

Weather:

Overcast with occasional breaks in the cloud for weak sunshine. Cool to Cold. Calm or very light wind from NW. Overnight (from about 6pm to 10am ) there was a wet cloudy mist  that made a dark night even blacker.

Report:

A clear drive from Helensburgh saw us at Morar in about 3 hours. Easy parking just up side road from Morar and an easy beach launch.

The scenery was superb with wooded islands at the west end and huge steep fiord like mountains at the East.

At Swordland we investigated the popular portage across to Loch Nevis. The surface is OK for large wheeled carriers but it is very steep. Not to be taken lightly.

From there we ventured on to the far end of the loch and the MBA bothy which, for some unknown reason, is named Oban.

As bothies go this was in the excellent category, dry with a good fire and a wood store. For the next hour or so the woodstore was filled and then the fire lit against the cold and damp now enveloping the bothy.

There then followed a good meal, a few drams and some stories. It is worth noting the remoteness of the bothy. The nearest habitation is Tarbet with a population of 4 and no road to anywhere. The nearest road was our starting point 12 miles away without a path. Indeed there were no established through paths in any direction.  We estimate that we were the only people for around 200 square miles.

At 10 pm it was off to bed.

The morning broke misty and wet but gradually dried and brightened up. By the time we left, just after 10am conditions were excellent with a flat calm instead of the expected breeze.

A gentle paddle brought us to some lovely sand beaches at Camas Luinge. Indeed there were good beaches and camping spots right along the loch. After a coffee break  we continued on to  Lettermorar. The croft here seems to have been deserted about 20 years ago. Sadly it appears that the whole loch community including Kinlochmorar and Swordland has gradually disappeared over the last 50 years leaving only the Bothy and a couple of summer cottages.

From here we paddled on to the islands where we stopped for lunch.

A final paddle back to our launch point saw us at the cars by 03.30pm, away by 4pm and home at 7pm (unless you stopped for the excellent fish and chips at the Real Food Cafe at Tyndrum).

Total miles covered in the weekend was 24. Overall this proved to be a perfect winter trip up an unexpectedly beautiful loch. Recommended.