Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Gotz Butcher, Mags Elliott, Adrian Curtis, Damien Theaker, Seb Lay, Geoff Riddington, Mike Bignall, Andy Bignall, Colin Hosey.
Sunday 8th December F3 / 4 from north
Last club paddle of the year. With storm Darragh still blowing all around, a little swathe of relative tranquillity allowed us to get out on our local loch. Ben Lomond with an early covering of snow and the sun shining, what better venue for a couple of paddlers new to the club.
We had tentatively planned a circumnavigation of all the main islands but a longish lunch on Inchcailloch saw us forego the southern islands and take the more direct run back to Luss via the narrows.
Paddlers: Al, Colin, Damien, Edward, Geoff, Seb, Stephen H
Conditions: Light Southerly breeze veering to stiff westerly F3-4.
Distance: 16km
Even after a couple of dropouts a big turnout – 11 of us altogether, necessitating some assistant leaders. We set of from Helensburgh Pier in almost still, misty (or atmospheric) conditions and paddled a little way up the Gareloch to minimise crossing distances and then followed shore round to just West of Kilchreggan Pier for lunch. The sun duly came out but the wind also veered to Westerly and picked up – the crossing over to Royal West at Greenock was quite lumpy. Deciding discretion was the better part of valour we headed back across to Kilchreggan peninsula to get some shelter rather than returning via the sugar ship as originally intended.
Quite a few eider ducks and a couple of seals poking their heads up but generally not much wild life seen. The Hebridean Princess crossed in front of us as we were crossing back to Rosneath Peninsular and surprised us by heading up into the Gareloch and anchoring off Rhu Marina.
As a grand finale, we were treated to a demonstration of Paddy’s fish roll – ask him about it!
Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stewart McCartney
The bothy was booked in January with the hope that the weather would be fair and that members with all abilities could attend. Instead, we had a yellow then amber Met Office Weather Warning and the first named storm of the year – Ashley.
Friday 18th F8 from south-east through day dropping F4 – 3 in evening
From the 10 members initially showing interest in the trip 3 of us travelled up in Gordon’s smart new electric car. After a short stop for food at Fort William and a boost for the car we arrived at Glenuig to see a flattish sea but with spray lifting offshore. As forecast, this subsided and we departed from inside Samalaman Island east along the coast to Roshven before heading north to Peanmeanach. A clearing western sky heralded a calmer day for tomorrow.
Peanmeanach Bothy has been taken back into management by the Ardnish Estate and is only available by prior booking. It is a popular place as testified by the website booking calendar and deservedly so. We enjoyed a pleasant evening warmed by the wood burning stove until the early hours.
Saturday 19th F3 from south-east
Relieved to see the forecast was accurate we decided to explore loch Ailort. Alerted to the prospect of seeing sea eagles by a couple scallop farmers off Eilean nan Trom one immediately came into view overhead quartering the hills. Slack water saw us easily passing through the narrows and on to Eilean Dubh near the head of the loch. After lunch taken on the south shore we headed back west against the tide which was only noticeable in the narrows. We stopped on Eilean nan Gobhar and climbed to the ruins of a fort for views all around.
Drizzle then rain, a portent of the coming gale saw us return to Samalaman Island.
We had planned a second night in the bothy but though the forecast showed a two-hour gap in Sunday’s gales those with day jobs on Monday wisely considered it too risky.
The electric car got us home in great style via a short re charge and fish and chips for us in Fort William.
HCC 4 day expedition down the River Spey from Aviemore to Spey Bay
03 – 06 Oct 24
Tom Ridsdill Leader
Stewart McCarthey
Steven McKeown
Day 1. ( 13.8 miles, 22.2 Km.) With the club trailer in tow we departed Helensburgh in the early hours of Thursday and arrived up in Aviemore to drop the boats and kit off and sort the shuttle.
By 1400 we were ready to set off from the Old Bridge Inn beach and began our 4 day expedition. Right from the get go we came across tree debris and strainers on each bend. This would have been quite a tricky first exposure to white water canoeing for a novice. Steve was not a novice on white water but this was, however, the first time he had been down a river in a canoe. To say he did well would be an understatement. He impressed Stewart and me with his control and choice of line and it only took a few kms to achieve this.
With the Cairngorm mountains in our rear view mirror we paddled north east and began to question our choice of attire. Dry suits were starting to get roasty toasty. There was no wind and the sun was out. But so were the Herons, Buzzards, Dippers, King fishers, and ducks. The salmon were leaping too.
Boat of Balliefurth farm was our abode for the night. A £5er each meant we could set up camp, have a fire and have the use of a toilet. Not bad. The field was large enough to share with a large armada of Edinburgh Uni students, most of whom seemed to come from the USA. They certainly enjoyed their night.
Day 2 (32 miles, 51.5 Km)
Reveille was at 0800 and by 10 we were back afloat and keen to put a dent into the total milage. The morning started with rain but this was only so that we had to pack up wet camping gear. The wind turned up too. It was a shame we didn’t have sails as it was blowing SSW and would have been ideal. We soon overtook the Edinburgh Armada and enjoyed the ever increasing frequency of rapids. We also had a fleeting glimpse of an otter as it dived below the surface. The frequency of Salmon leaping increased which was awesome. Sadly, none of them decided to leap into our boats!
The last rapid of the day was the famous “Washing Machine” of Blacksboat. Shortly thereafter, at around 1630, we decided to stop for the day and found ourselves a great spot to wild camp. A further 30ish km in the bag. I thought pimping my bivi would be a great addition to our camp. But so did all the midges, moths and mosquitoes!! (Last time I do that)
Day 3 (47 Miles, 75.6 Km)
Knockando came a knocking. Day 3 was the main grade 2 rapid section but with low water levels it was a tad more technical than normal. It was a joy and a lot of fun for all three of us working out the lines and manoeuvring the boats around the plethora of rocks, “stealth rocks” and tree debris. (Stealth rocks was the term we gave to the ones that just appeared.). By this point Steven was a wiz at controlling his canoe.
The rapids just kept coming and by 1400 we arrived at Charlestown of Aberlour. This was perhaps the only negative of the whole journey. The high hopes for a nice coffee in fant of the picture perfect village green was dashed by the foul taste of Kenco instant! (not a fan at the worst of times).
However, we soon set off in search of our next camping spot which emerged on the outskirts of Rothes. Another fine island with decent camping spots was marred by the loud noise of the combines and tractors on one side of the island and the factory and sewages works on the other. It was still incredibly pleasant and a third evening around a fire was enjoyed.
The amount of invasive plant species started to increase. This was very evident on the last day but, after a further 25km we settled in for the night.
Day 4 61 miles, 98.1 Km
The morning threatened more rain and just before camp was struck the rain tried. Well, enough of it came to ensure our tents and bivis were damp before packing. This last part was deceptive. We knew this though and ensured we remained on guard round all the bends right through to the sea.
The landscape throughout the journey varied immensely but, in my opinion, not as much as on this last day. The hill abruptly stopped and the landscape became more of an open low lands of farming and marsh. The river meandered all the way and on many bends we were faced with low shingle rapids flowing right into the path of nasty strainers in the form of tree roots and branches. The Spey certainly made us work right through to the end. However, on both sides of the river was Himalayan Balsam and huge numbers of Japanese knotweed. Such a shame but it also meant we needed to make doubly sure we clean our gear thoroughly before venturing on further river systems.
The final part before the drive back to Aviemore was to enjoy a late lunch at Spey Bay Golf Club. They were very kind enough to allow us to park a car and trailer there over the 4 days and asked for nothing in return. The least we could do was to have a brew there. However, the menu looked too tempting and, I must say, the beef, haggis and smoked hickory cheese burger was deeeelicious.
Thank you to Steve and Stewart for allowing me to lead them both down the Spey. It was a pleasure and till next time.
Participants: Steve Wheaton, Stewart McCartney, Andy Bignall, Elspeth Mckechan
This trip was planned for last year on two weekends but thwarted on both by high winds. This year the winds were just ok but blowing from the NE as they had been for the previous week. Tides were at full springs and being the autumn equinox another 20% over average.
Sat Sept 21st NE F4 and mist
Originally we had planned to start from Coldingham beach. A local surfing competition was in full progress which was a good clue that despite being great for youngsters and derring-do feats our fully laden sea kayaks would be more easily launched from the nearby St. Abbs Harbour.
We used the car park at the harbour for two vehicles and a trailer (£20 per vehicle), finding a gap for the trailer behind a skip avoiding an extra charge.
An easy exit from the harbour, then around St. Abbs Head into quite a lumpy sea with a cross swell that had clearly developed over the previous week. Some respite after Pettico Wick but the swell required vigilance.
This section of coast has limited egress points, particularly in an onshore wind. Two stops were managed the first at Heather Carr and then at Hirst Rocks. Checked Pease Bay for camping spots but little scope seen and moved up to Cove Harbour. Just enough room for our tents on the beach. The harbour is privately owned having been purchased to avoid development. It is though very small and where would have ordinarily picked a remote wild camp, given the swell and surf it was most welcome. Cove Harbour Conservation Ltd. have responsibility for it’s upkeep and maintenance and we made a donation in reparation for our unannounced stay.
Sun Sept 22nd NE F3 cloudy
Still plenty of cross swell to contend with. Two of the party decided to shorten their trip just south of Torness at Thorntonloch. Three of us continued to White Sands stopping for lunch and a coffee from a local mobile café. The remainder of the trip has a less dramatic coastline though Old Dunbar from the sea is spectacular. We had planned to enter the harbour though in the event electing to make straight for Belhaven Beach and pick up our pals from Thorntonloch.
So good to have finally made it over to this part of the east with enough interesting coast seen but not fully explored due to conditions to hopefully make another trip over in better weather.
Non-Paddlers: Mark, Sue (&Vonna of course) plus Colin earlier
Weather: Wind SW Top end of Force 4 with squalls up to F6. Rain and Mist
Report: The atrocious weather (wind and rain) was the dominant factor on this short paddle between Finnart and Carrick (and v.v.). We launched at Finnart at high tide and were surprised that the wind was light given the forecast and the experience at Craigendoran.
We crossed to the west bank of Loch Long and followed that south into the wind. As we rounded the point, the wind and sea became serious. A strenuous 40 minutes directly into a very strong wind then followed, lightened only for a relief stop on the beach beneath Corran Cottage. Amazingly three other kayakers were also sheltering on the beach.
Strong winds at the mouth of the Goil are far from unknown. The wind tends to find its own route through and around the hills and can turn a South Westerly into a North Westerly as shown in Fig 1
Fig 1: Winds at the mouth of Loch Goil on Saturday
Still, we thought, it will be an easy paddle back.
After an excellent evening socialising in the barn and a rather wet night in a tent, 9am saw us back on the beach at Carrick for the short paddle back to Finnart. To our increasing amazement, the westerly we had battled on Saturday had apparently turned 180 degrees and been transformed into a strong easterly as shown in Fig 2. It was raining heavily.
Fig 2 Wind at the mouth of Loch Goil, Sunday
After the point was rounded, the paddle up Loch Long in the strong following wind was not always comfortable and was not helped by the cold on the hands from the wind. But it was soon over, reaching Finnart at almost exactly the same time as the three kayakers we met on Saturday.
It would be very difficult to explain why paddling in these conditions (strong wind and heavy rain) was so enjoyable, but it was. Coupled with the barbeque, the companionship of other paddlers from Toward and West Coast Rollers and a fond goodbye to Vonna and Jai, it proved to be a really good weekend trip.
Participants: Steve Wheaton, Paddy Muir, Seb Layburn, Stephen Hearns.
Sat 10th F4 from west south west
Met at Arduaine at 1400. Due to strong winds discussed options of; a. just go, b. waiting for wind to decrease as forecast later or C. drive round to Balvicar. Decided on option a. but route modified to get as much shelter from Shuna as possible before striking north. After a couple of short stops and heading north from Shuna plus a dropping wind we enjoyed a lovely paddle up the sound to Tigh an Truish. The pub was hosting its annual music festival which we signed up for and enjoyed burgers and music. Continued through the Clachan Sound to our camp at Puilladobhrain. Hoping to catch some more of the music festival we walked over the hill back to Tigh an Truish. By the time of our arrival the live band had finished and the evening given over to the DJ. Had a couple of very enjoyable pints and returned to camp in the dark.
Sunday 11th F1-2 from south west
The day emerged bright, sunny & cheerful, unlike I suspected, how a few of the party goers from last night would be feeling a few fields away at Tigh an Truish!
Seb made an heroic swim through the channel with Eilean Buidhe, and back into the bay to our west.
10:00 set off west then south-west down the east coast in perfect conditions. Met some other paddlers up from Ayrshire all of us grateful for this gap in the recent windy weather. Stopped at Easdale for a coffee and some refresher guidance for one of the group on paddling into and out of tidal streams. On down into the Cuan Sound and Kayakers Cove for some play in the stream and eddies.
Carried on down though the gap between Torsa and Luing before heading back to Arduain.
In just 24 hours; paddling in open water, narrow sounds and tidal streams, plus a music festival, and wild camp – marvellous.
Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stewart McCartney, Paddy Muir
This trip is a continuation from four earlier trips: Helensburgh / Oban May 2019, Oban / Arisaig Sept 2021, Ullapool / Arisaig Sept 2022 and Ullapool / Balnakeil 2023.
Put back from original planned date in early May due other commitments within the team.
Team of four. Three experienced and one new to multiday trips.
Period before dominated with several weeks of northerly winds.
Loose arrangement with Durness Bus Co to pick us up on 18th / 19th from as far as Wick.
Wed 10th Helensburgh to Durness
We decided that using one vehicle and a local bus company with a trailer to pick us up would give the greatest flexibility and ease some of the burden of driving. It is a long way to the roof of Scotland but lots of chat, a couple of stops and we were soon putting up tents at Durness Campsite. Lots of rolling waves and white tops coming into the bay!
Thu 11th Balnakeil to Eilean Hoan, 15km.
N F3-4, surf 3’
Our vehicle and trailer were safely left at the community hall and we set off from Balnakeil Bay into a smallish swell that increased substantially as we approached and rounded Faraid Head. Once clear of the headland and heading SW the swell eased and the paddling became drier. Not fancying surfing into Sango Bay we continued east to Eilean Hoan and the shelter of its southern shores. The island has an RSPB shelter which visitors are invited to use, this made an ideal setting for our evening cooking and dining.
Fri 12th Eilean Hoan to Farr Bay, 35km
WNW F3, surf 3’
Crossed the mouth of Loch Eriboll and short stop SW of Whiten Head for slack water and the start of the E. going stream. Spectacular caves and arches along this coast. Useable landing spots though are rare along this section of coast until East Strathan where we stopped for a break at a sheltered small inlet W. of the beaches. Lunch on Eilean nan Ron. Though tempted by Neave Islands sheltered beaches we pressed onto Farr Bay. The bay is described as a ‘user friendly surfing beach’ – which it was going in on the SW corner. Camp and dinner made in the dunes above the beach we then headed for the very nice Betty Hill Hotel for a stretch of the legs and a couple of drinks.
Sat 13th Farr Bay Neave Island
ENE F3, surf 3’-4’
The surf had been predicted to settle and even fall, but in the event had stepped up. Luckily, our position by the burn looked the calmest area of the beach. My timing on breaking out was not the best but at least the others could then rush out in slightly better conditions, even so, Stewart had his paddles and maps dislodged, Paddy was rolled but quickly rolled back up and Gordon got a black eye from a wave hitting his glasses. Beyond the breakers we regrouped caught our breath and after a quick look in the direction of Farr Point headed back W. to Neave Island and its sheltered S beaches. Afternoon spent exploring the island and considering options for the rest of the week against a forecast looking unsettled and winds stubbornly staying in the N.
Sun 14th Neave Is. to Skullomie to Neave Is. 17km
ENE F3, surf 3’-4’
Decision made to not go E. for Farr Point and instead explore Skerray Bay and the coast W.and S. to Scullomie Harbour. Back at Neave Island for a second night and the hope that the late forecast of the wind backing to the NW might improve conditions for tomorrow. (The forecast for the E and W coasts was not favourable as alternative venues and even though our conditions were not ideal, they were, by virtue of us being between two separate weather systems better than other areas, so decided to press on E).
Mon 15th Neave Is. To Port a’ Chinn (Armadale) 19km
NW F3, surf 2’-3’
Needing to renew water supplies we tried Torrisdale Bay and the Pier at Bettyhill but surf too large at the river bar. Continued round to Glaisgeo where we used a rocky inlet to wait for slack water at Farr Point. Several interesting caves and features explored on way to the point. Some swell at the point but more sheltered on E. side. Kirtomy Bay for lunch. We were approached by a retired professional photographer recording the old harbour and presumably thinking we were appropriate weather-beaten additions, he had us posing for several compositions with the promise we would get a copies. Afternoon continued round to Port a’ Chinn a surprisingly sheltered old fishing harbour just W. of Armadale Bay. An aerial cable from the station buildings to the harbour still exists. A steep climb up a track via the old fishing station gave us a tap and chance to renew water.
Tue 16th Port a’ Chinn (Armadale) to Fresgoe Harbour 28km
WNW F3, surf 2’-3’
Crossed Armadale Bay exploring caves and arches at Geodh’ Ruadh and Boursa Is. Stop for lunch in sheltered inlet W. of Totegan and waited for slack and start of E going stream off Strathy Pt. Potentially one of the most exposed headlands on our trip we were grateful for the decreased swell from what we experienced earlier on and rounded the point with no drama. A pleasant stop at Port Skerra W. of Melvich Bay and some restocking of treats from a little shop, even a whole change of diet for one of the team that had been living from dehydrated rations since starting and was craving real food. Crossed Melvich Bay to Sandside Harbour at Fresgoe and yet another sheltered surf free refuge with enough room on the grassy keyside for 4 tents. The harbour even has a toilet 800m away, but best of all avoids the sinister reputation of the beach that has warnings of radioactive particles being found.
The view E. from the harbour looks straight onto the nuclear facility of Dounreay which is currently being decommissioned.
Wed 17th Fresgoe Harbour to Murkle Bay 34km
SW F2 and veering NW F3 in afternoon, surf 1’-2’
With the weather and swell settling nicely we continued E. past Dounreay with its lights and noises from decommissioning work, past what until now we had not seen much of – a low coastline with a backdrop of cultivated grassland. A lunch stop at Crosskirk and a walk up to St. Mary’s Chapel. After Crosskirk the coastline returns to cliffs, caves and arches. We rounded Brims Ness in lovely conditions and continued along as spectacular a section of coast as any seen so far. Of greatest note is Clett Rock just prior to Holborn Head, the cliffs either side of the channel between the rock and the mainland creates an optical illusion of the water falling downhill from W to E. – Thurso’s own electric brae.
A stop in Thurso was made for ice creams and provisions, followed by a final 6km push round to Murkle Bay and a peaceful campsite in the dunes.
Thu 18th Murkle Bay to Brough Pier 13km, Far North Bus Co. to Durness
SSE F3-F2, surf 1’-2’
Our last paddling day with an appropriate finishing highlight of rounding the mainland’s most northerly point – Dunnet Head. The rounding was celebrated by paddy doing a roll and Stewart touching the headland.
Another old naturally sheltered harbour at Brough provided the ideal finishing point and access for our minibus and trailer.
Eight days paddling to get here and 2 &1/2 hrs to return. Nice seeing the coast from a different perspective but nothing like the experience we had on the water.
Friday 19th Durness to Helensburgh & Dumbarton
Couple of stops on the way back and time to reflect on a great journey. The next part (2025) starts with the Merry Men of Mey and Duncansby Head after which it’s the east coast.
Summary
Total distance 162km (140km going east and 22km waiting for conditions to improve)
Surf & swell, too much at times but islands and old fishing harbours came to the rescue.
Thurso’s Electric Brae was a surprize to all.
What a remarkable paddle the north coast of Scotland is.
Neap tides and relatively low winds made trip round Gigha look attractive. Fairly late start on Saturday from the beach just South of the ferry terminal at Tayinloan. Plenty of parking (although this is apparently not always the case) and easy access for launching.
Saturdays paddle took us across the sound of Gigha to Eilean Liath and then South with the last of the ebb tide inside Gigalum Island and to the West of Cara Island for a late lunch stop. Here we were meant to ask permission to land from the island’s ghosts. However, they appeared to have smiled on us anyway as when Gordon got back into his boat he realised that he had paddled from Tayinloan with his car keys on his deck!
We went round the Mull of Cara and into the more exposed West side of Cara and headed North to Cuddyport beach where we set up camp for night in a delightful spot after just over 15km of paddling. Gordon’s son was first mate on Provident, a Brixham Trawler celebrating its 100th anniversary and en route from Dublin to Oban. As luck would have it, they were anchored in Ardminish Bay so we walked over and were treated to a tour of what is a wonderful boat.
We hadn’t seen much marine life during the day, but in the Garden of the Gigha Hotel we did see a very bold hedgehog. The hotel is currently closed but hopefully will be refurbished in the not too distant future. In the meantime there is a horsebox bar in the garden.
On Sunday we paddled North with the last of the flood tide up the stunning West side of Gigha – the tide timings allowed for a very leisurely start. We stopped of in a small bay with an old mill – now converted into a house and with a couple of other We arrived with the end of the tide at Bagh na Dorlinne for lunch and then paddled round the North End and South with the ebb tide. A final crossing back from South of Arminish Bay back to Tayinloan completed just over 20km for the day and a very enjoyable trip.
Leader: Myles Paddlers: Chris, Jess, Geoff and Mark
Weather: Bright and Sunny but Breezy: NW Gusty F4
Report: The wind is always going to play the major role in a sea kayak trip. The forecast for the day was F3/4 from XCWeather and F4/5 from the Met Office. It was decided that the original route Helensburgh-Kilcreggan/Cove was too exposed for an A grade trip and that we would try Loch Lomond at Luss. It proved to be an excellent decision for this group in these challenging conditions.
After a hard paddle up the west shore to Inverbeg we ventured up the Douglas Water to the bridge. It is quite surprising the similarity between the entrances of the Fruin, Luss and Douglas. Each of these offers an incredibly tranquil canal between banks of sand and shingle deposited when the river is in spate.
It was a remarkably easy paddle across the Loch to Rowardennan for lunch by the car park. The toilets were good (and free) but there was no sign of the fabled coffee van.
After lunch we headed south enjoying the lovely east shore. We took another coffee break in the sun, sheltered from the breeze in a beach by the Ross Isles. Life was really good.
The final crossing back to Luss saw us back at our cars just after 3. It was a superb if challenging paddle in the sunshine in fantastic scenery. Difficult to imagine a better day.
