Expedition – Nairn to Wick, 180km

June 19th – 28th 2025

Thursday 19th Helensburgh – Nairn

The original plan for this year was to continue from last year’s finish at Brough round Duncansby Head and down the coast. Neap tides and what latterly turned out to be good for the start of the trip did not look so good for heading further south. As with some other sections already completed we reversed the direction starting at Nairn and heading north.

Drive up from Helensburgh with stops at Perth & Newtonmore.

Friday 20th Nairn to Rosemarkie S, F3, 20km

Launched on beach just to the west of River Nairn. Hugged coast round to Fort George staying clear of dredgers working off Whiteness Head. Lunch on beach and brief exploration of Fort George’s outer walls including the hound cemetery. Crossed Moray Firth to Rosemarkie finding a wild camp in the dunes and beach north of town.  

Saturday 21st Rosemarkie to Balintore S, F3, 25km

Run up coast by Sutors Stacks, crossing Cromarty Firth for lunch on beach east of Nigg Ferry. Continued north looking for suitable camping but not finding anything until Balintore village where we were generously accommodated by a small Caravan & Camping Club site. The owner having been a professional salmon fisher gave us lots of recommendations along the Firth coast in case we needed refuge, which the forecast predicted we might. Just missed dinner at the local pub by 10 mins.

Sunday 22nd SW, F3/4 Balintore to Tarbet Ness  SW, F3/4, 16km

Fast run up the coast to Rockfield for a lunch stop. Continued in the afternoon to Tarbet Ness abandoning the original plan of Portmahomack due to strengthening SW winds and forecast that winds too strong for paddling tomorrow. Lovely camp in field just to south of Wilkhaven Pier. Tried contacting owner but told by his retired shepherdess that the family were away and that overnighting for kayakers would not be a problem.

Walked back along coast to Ballone Castle, then over to Portmahomack this time just managing to find a dinner at the golf club.

Monday 23rd Tarbet Ness W, F6

Whitetops everywhere vindicating plan for a day on shore. Walked up to the Robert Stevenson lighthouse and continued along coast path to Portmahomack. Inspected large whale skull bones just off the beach. Topped up provisions from the local shop followed by a super late lunch at the Carnegie Hall Coffee Shop. Back to camp site via road and lane.

Tuesday 24th Tarbet Ness to Brora SW, 2/3, 42km

Early start, with most of us needing a couple of hours from wake up at 05:00 to paddling at 07:00, thankfully no other early starts required on this trip. The strong winds dropped during the night and with them the sea settled and the sun came out. Stop at Portmahomack then long paddle around bay stopping at Loch Fleet entrance for lunch. Carried on in the afternoon with the following wind past Golspie and a camp in the dunes 2km north of Brora. The tide was fully out so a long carry of boats and equipment to get above HW. A speculative hope of using the official campsite proved unworkable as only two spaces left plus another carry across a golf course to reach it. A long day but great progress made and with it the possibility of getting to Wick by the end of the week.

Wednesday 25th Brora to Berridale S, F2/3, 29km

 Another long walk to get the boats launched. A fair wind and slight sea soon saw us to Helmsdale. Along the way we kept seeing a walker following the shoreline, sometimes ahead of us other times trailing.  A lunch stop in town at a café where we met up with the walker who it turns out to be walking the John O Groats Trail (Inverness to JOG) but in his case he had started at Lands End 3 months earlier. The afternoon was spent working our way up to Berridale where a great camp was found nearby some old fishing cottages. Another JOG trail walker also came to camp nearby. Explored the river area crossing the two-person suspension bridge.  

Thursday 26th Berridale to The Haven near Sarclet.  W then SW, F4, 37km

Passed by An Dun natural arch and great photo of Stuart taken by Gordon (bound to feature in the next photo competition). The rock strata here like that east of Thurso runs at an incline to the horizontal giving an illusion of paddling down or uphill

Stopped for break at Dunbeath and continued onto Lybster for lunch at cafe in front of the harbour.

We had expected a stop at Whaligoe Steps but could see nothing suitable (the clue was in the name!) Pressed onto The Haven which fortunately had room for four tents. Only able to get a weather update from the hill above the bay which indicated a solid F4 from the S.

Friday 27th The Haven to Wick. W, F4, 11km

Decided that we could split into two groups for the day, Steve & Paddy on an early shift to get Paddy on the way S to collect the vehicle from Nairn and Gordon and Stuart getting a more leisurely start and as it turned out a much less bumpy passage. Tide low at Wick so a bit of wading and towing required to get our boats up to the campsite on Wick River. A superb campsite well worth the haul up the river.  

With Paddy back from Nairn we headed into town for a couple of beers and a curry, suitably finishing off a great week.  

Saturday 28th Wick to Helensburgh

Headed south with stops for breakfast in Brora and lunch at Newtonmore.

A little dubious that the east coast would not offer the spectacular coastline of the west and the north, we were not disappointed – it’s a magical place and well worth return visits.

Although we did not manage the Merry Men of May and Duncansby Head reversing our original plan allowed us to get a full week of paddling, mostly with the wind in our favour. We are all looking forward to returning to the far northeast to complete the corner.

Seals off Witness Head

Fort George

Mermaids off Balintore

Tarbet Ness Camp

Dunrobin Castle

Berridale

The Haven

Wick River Shallows

HCC Trip Report

Helensburgh to Helensburgh via Lochs Long & Lomond, Leven & Clyde

June 6th – 8th, 2025

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Rem Fowler, Gotz Bucher, Damien Theaker – complete trip Alice Hewson – Fri & Sun, Jim, Seb Lay, Stephen Hearns – Sun

Tidal estuary, a long loch, camping, portaging, inland loch, camping on an island, two rivers and another portage.

Friday 6th June, F3 from West, 33Km

Helensburgh to Guanan 29Km (4km North of Mark Bothy)

Steve & Damien walked boats down from homes (no car weekend for us). Met Rem & Alice and headed out around 1300. Bit of a push into a head wind off southern end of Kilcreggan peninsula but easier going when off the wind down loch Long. Gotz joined us at Cove, break on Ardentinney beach and onto campsite at Guanan. A sheltered eastern shore, damp and humid, no breeze, and yes we were not the only ones there. Alice who had experience of the site in the same conditions declared she was carrying on to her home at Succoth. Despite a good beach bon fire we all gave up after eating our suppers from under midge hats and were all in our beds for 21:30.   

Saturday 7th June, F3-4  from North West

Guanan to Inchmurrin 30Km (including 3Km portage)

Breakfasted, suited up from within our tents we were quickly in our boats and enjoying a bug free paddle to the head of the loch. The portage over from Arrocher to Tarbet is a delight and taking about an hour thirty not much longer than a regular walk. Coffee and snacks at the Cruise Loch Lomond cafe then headed down Loch Lomond with a nice tail wind. A great camp site at the north end of Inchmurrin with sunhine, a breeze and no neighbours other than a small motorboat.     

Sunday 8th June, F3 from West South West

Inchmurrin to Helensburgh 31Km.

0800 start to meet up again with Alice, plus Jim, Seb & Stephen H at the entrance to the River Leven.  Portage around the Balloch Barrage then lovely run down the river in bright sunshine. A lunch stop on the edge of Leven Grove Park before heading down river with a following tide but head wind to Ardmore. Brief stop then off the wind to Helensburgh Pier for 1700.

Ice creams from Dino’s to fuel a one-mile portage up the hill home for a couple of us.

HCC Trip Report, April 27th 2025, Kerrera Island Circumnavigation

Steve W, Gordon, Norrie, Geoff, Stuart McC, Alice, Finn, Seb,

Sunday 27th April , F4 from south, 21Km

Not the greatest forecast with gusty winds from the south and an ebbing spring tide to start into. Eight of us set out from just north of the ferry car park and within the hour made it round to Gylen Castle for a look, always worth the visit. Quite choppy relaunching but everyone safely afloat. Ardmore Bay saw one of the team rolled and so very nearly self recovered, but quickly and efficiently rescued by Gordon & Stuart, the rest of the team standing by.

We took a lunch stop out of the chop and wind at Port Phadruig, just as the rain started and finished as we headed back out!

Lovely brisk run up the west coast and after rounding the top of the island back into the weather again down to Heather Island before getting some shelter off the mainland and returning to our start point.

Rain washed, a little tired but happily completed one of several island rounding’s planned for this year. Hoping for better weather on the next one.

Ancient Home of the McDougalls

Was JS here?

Out in a new boat and its not even his.

Happy in the weather

HCC Trip Report Loch Lomond Sunday 8th Dec 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Gotz Butcher, Mags Elliott, Adrian Curtis, Damien Theaker, Seb Lay, Geoff Riddington, Mike Bignall, Andy Bignall, Colin Hosey.

Sunday 8th December F3 / 4 from north

Last club paddle of the year. With storm Darragh still blowing all around, a little swathe of relative tranquillity allowed us to get out on our local loch. Ben Lomond with an early covering of snow and the sun shining, what better venue for a couple of paddlers new to the club.

We had tentatively planned a circumnavigation of all the main islands but a longish lunch on Inchcailloch saw us forego the southern islands and take the more direct run back to Luss via the narrows.

Great finish to a lovely season.

Peanmeanach Bothy Sea Kayak Trip

October 18th & 19th 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stewart McCartney

The bothy was booked in January with the hope that the weather would be fair and that members with all abilities could attend. Instead, we had a yellow then amber Met Office Weather Warning and the first named storm of the year – Ashley.

Friday 18th       F8 from south-east through day dropping F4 – 3 in evening

From the 10 members initially showing interest in the trip 3 of us travelled up in Gordon’s smart new electric car. After a short stop for food at Fort William and a boost for the car we arrived at Glenuig to see a flattish sea but with spray lifting offshore. As forecast, this subsided and we departed from inside Samalaman Island east along the coast to Roshven before heading north to Peanmeanach. A clearing western sky heralded a calmer day for tomorrow.

Peanmeanach Bothy has been taken back into management by the Ardnish Estate and is only available by prior booking. It is a popular place as testified by the website booking calendar and deservedly so. We enjoyed a pleasant evening warmed by the wood burning stove until the early hours.      

Saturday 19th     F3 from south-east

Relieved to see the forecast was accurate we decided to explore loch Ailort. Alerted to the prospect of seeing sea eagles by a couple scallop farmers off Eilean nan Trom one immediately came into view overhead quartering the hills. Slack water saw us easily passing through the narrows and on to Eilean Dubh near the head of the loch. After lunch taken on the south shore we headed back west against the tide which was only noticeable in the narrows. We stopped on Eilean nan Gobhar and climbed to the ruins of a fort for views all around.

Drizzle then rain, a portent of the coming gale saw us return to Samalaman Island.  

We had planned a second night in the bothy but though the forecast showed a two-hour gap in Sunday’s gales those with day jobs on Monday wisely considered it too risky.

The electric car got us home in great style via a short re charge and fish and chips for us in Fort William.

St Abbs Harbour to Belhaven Beach Sept 21-22nd, 2024

HCC Trip Report

St. Abbs Harbour to Belhaven Beach, Dunbar

Sep 21st – 22nd , 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Stewart McCartney, Andy Bignall, Elspeth Mckechan

This trip was planned for last year on two weekends but thwarted on both by high winds. This year the winds were just ok but blowing from the NE as they had been for the previous week. Tides were at full springs and being the autumn equinox another 20% over average.

Sat Sept 21st    NE F4 and mist

Originally we had planned to start from Coldingham beach. A local surfing competition was in full progress which was a good clue that despite being great for youngsters and derring-do feats our fully laden sea kayaks would be more easily launched from the nearby St. Abbs Harbour.

We used the car park at the harbour for two vehicles and a trailer (£20 per vehicle), finding a gap for the trailer behind a skip avoiding an extra charge.

An easy exit from the harbour, then around St. Abbs Head into quite a lumpy sea with a cross swell that had clearly developed over the previous week. Some respite after Pettico Wick but the swell required vigilance.

This section of coast has limited egress points, particularly in an onshore wind. Two stops were managed the first at Heather Carr and then at Hirst Rocks. Checked Pease Bay for camping spots but little scope seen and moved up to Cove Harbour. Just enough room for our tents on the beach. The harbour is privately owned having been purchased to avoid development. It is though very small and where would have ordinarily picked a remote wild camp, given the swell and surf it was most welcome. Cove Harbour Conservation Ltd. have responsibility for it’s upkeep and maintenance and we made a donation in reparation for our unannounced stay.

Sun Sept 22nd    NE F3 cloudy

Still plenty of cross swell to contend with. Two of the party decided to shorten their trip just south of Torness at Thorntonloch. Three of us continued to White Sands stopping for lunch and a coffee from a local mobile café. The remainder of the trip has a less dramatic coastline though Old Dunbar from the sea is spectacular. We had planned to enter the harbour though in the event electing to make straight for Belhaven Beach and pick up our pals from Thorntonloch.

So good to have finally made it over to this part of the east with enough interesting coast seen but not fully explored due to conditions to hopefully make another trip over in better weather.

Seil Island Circumnavigation, 10th – 11th August 2024

HCC Trip Report

Seil Island

August 10th & 11th, 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Paddy Muir, Seb Layburn, Stephen Hearns.

Sat 10th   F4 from west south west

Met at Arduaine at 1400. Due to strong winds discussed options of; a. just go, b. waiting for wind to decrease as forecast later or C. drive round to Balvicar. Decided on option a. but route modified to get as much shelter from Shuna as possible before striking north. After a couple of short stops and heading north from Shuna plus a dropping wind we enjoyed a lovely paddle up the sound to Tigh an Truish. The pub was hosting its annual music festival which we signed up for and enjoyed burgers and music. Continued through the Clachan Sound to our camp at Puilladobhrain. Hoping to catch some more of the music festival we walked over the hill back to Tigh an Truish. By the time of our arrival the live band had finished and the evening given over to the DJ. Had a couple of very enjoyable pints and returned to camp in the dark.  

Sunday 11th   F1-2 from south west

The day emerged bright, sunny & cheerful, unlike I suspected, how a few of the party goers from last night would be feeling a few fields away at Tigh an Truish!

Seb made an heroic swim through the channel with Eilean Buidhe, and back into the bay to our west.

10:00 set off west then south-west down the east coast in perfect conditions. Met some other paddlers up from Ayrshire all of us grateful for this gap in the recent windy weather. Stopped at Easdale for a coffee and some refresher guidance for one of the group on paddling into and out of tidal streams. On down into the Cuan Sound and Kayakers Cove for some play in the stream and eddies.

Carried on down though the gap between Torsa and Luing before heading back to Arduain.

In just 24 hours; paddling in open water, narrow sounds and tidal streams, plus a music festival, and wild camp – marvellous.

Club Expedition Balnakeil to Brough, 10th – 19th July 2024

Club Expedition Balnakeil to Brough

July 10th – 19th 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stewart McCartney, Paddy Muir

This trip is a continuation from four earlier trips: Helensburgh / Oban May 2019, Oban / Arisaig Sept 2021, Ullapool / Arisaig Sept 2022 and Ullapool / Balnakeil 2023.

Put back from original planned date in early May due other commitments within the team.

Team of four. Three experienced and one new to multiday trips.

Period before dominated with several weeks of northerly winds.

Loose arrangement with Durness Bus Co to pick us up on 18th / 19th from as far as Wick.

Wed 10th Helensburgh to Durness

We decided that using one vehicle and a local bus company with a trailer to pick us up would give the greatest flexibility and ease some of the burden of driving. It is a long way to the roof of Scotland but lots of chat, a couple of stops and we were soon putting up tents at Durness Campsite. Lots of rolling waves and white tops coming into the bay!

Thu 11th Balnakeil to Eilean Hoan, 15km.

N F3-4, surf 3’

Our vehicle and trailer were safely left at the community hall and we set off from Balnakeil Bay into a smallish swell that increased substantially as we approached and rounded Faraid Head. Once clear of the headland and heading SW the swell eased and the paddling became drier. Not fancying surfing into Sango Bay we continued east to Eilean Hoan and the shelter of its southern shores. The island has an RSPB shelter which visitors are invited to use, this made an ideal setting for our evening cooking and dining.

Fri 12th Eilean Hoan to Farr Bay, 35km

WNW F3, surf 3’

Crossed the mouth of Loch Eriboll and short stop SW of Whiten Head for slack water and the start of the E. going stream. Spectacular caves and arches along this coast. Useable landing spots though are rare along this section of coast until East Strathan where we stopped for a break at a sheltered small inlet W. of the beaches. Lunch on Eilean nan Ron. Though tempted by Neave Islands sheltered beaches we pressed onto Farr Bay. The bay is described as a ‘user friendly surfing beach’ – which it was going in on the SW corner. Camp and dinner made in the dunes above the beach we then headed for the very nice Betty Hill Hotel for a stretch of the legs and a couple of drinks.

Sat 13th Farr Bay Neave Island

ENE F3, surf 3’-4’

The surf had been predicted to settle and even fall, but in the event had stepped up. Luckily, our position by the burn looked the calmest area of the beach. My timing on breaking out was not the best but at least the others could then rush out in slightly better conditions, even so, Stewart had his paddles and maps dislodged, Paddy was rolled but quickly rolled back up and Gordon got a black eye from a wave hitting his glasses. Beyond the breakers we regrouped caught our breath and after a quick look in the direction of Farr Point headed back W. to Neave Island and its sheltered S beaches. Afternoon spent exploring the island and considering options for the rest of the week against a forecast looking unsettled and winds stubbornly staying in the N.

Sun 14th Neave Is. to Skullomie to Neave Is. 17km

ENE F3, surf 3’-4’

Decision made to not go E. for Farr Point and instead explore Skerray Bay and the coast W.and S. to Scullomie Harbour. Back at Neave Island for a second night and the hope that the late forecast of the wind backing to the NW might improve conditions for tomorrow. (The forecast for the E and W coasts was not favourable as alternative venues and even though our conditions were not ideal, they were, by virtue of us being between two separate weather systems better than other areas, so decided to press on E).

Mon 15th Neave Is. To Port a’ Chinn (Armadale)  19km

NW F3, surf 2’-3’

Needing to renew water supplies we tried Torrisdale Bay and the Pier at Bettyhill but surf too large at the river bar. Continued round to Glaisgeo where we used a rocky inlet to wait for slack water at Farr Point. Several interesting caves and features explored on way to the point. Some swell at the point but more sheltered on E. side. Kirtomy Bay for lunch. We were approached by a retired professional photographer recording the old harbour and presumably thinking we were appropriate weather-beaten additions, he had us posing for several compositions with the promise we would get a copies. Afternoon continued round to Port a’ Chinn a surprisingly sheltered old fishing harbour just W. of Armadale Bay. An aerial cable from the station buildings to the harbour still exists. A steep climb up a track via the old fishing station gave us a tap and chance to renew water.

Tue 16th  Port a’ Chinn (Armadale) to Fresgoe Harbour 28km

WNW F3, surf 2’-3’

Crossed Armadale Bay exploring caves and arches at Geodh’ Ruadh and Boursa Is. Stop for lunch in sheltered inlet W. of Totegan and waited for slack and start of E going stream off Strathy Pt. Potentially one of the most exposed headlands on our trip we were grateful for the decreased swell from what we experienced earlier on and rounded the point with no drama. A pleasant stop at Port Skerra W. of Melvich Bay and some restocking of treats from a little shop, even a whole change of diet for one of the team that had been living from dehydrated rations since starting and was craving real food. Crossed Melvich Bay to Sandside Harbour at Fresgoe and yet another sheltered surf free refuge with enough room on the grassy keyside for 4 tents. The harbour even has a toilet 800m away, but best of all avoids the sinister reputation of the beach that has warnings of radioactive particles being found.

The view E. from the harbour looks straight onto the nuclear facility of Dounreay which is currently being decommissioned.

Wed 17th Fresgoe Harbour to Murkle Bay 34km

SW F2 and veering NW F3 in afternoon, surf 1’-2’

With the weather and swell settling nicely we continued E. past Dounreay with its lights and noises from decommissioning work, past what until now we had not seen much of – a low coastline with a backdrop of cultivated grassland. A lunch stop at Crosskirk and a walk up to St. Mary’s Chapel. After Crosskirk the coastline returns to cliffs, caves and arches. We rounded Brims Ness in lovely conditions and continued along as spectacular a section of coast  as any seen so far. Of greatest note is Clett Rock just prior to Holborn Head, the cliffs either side of the channel between the rock and the mainland creates an optical illusion of the water falling downhill from W to E. – Thurso’s own electric brae.

A stop in Thurso was made for ice creams and provisions, followed by a final 6km push round to Murkle Bay and a peaceful campsite in the dunes.   

Thu 18th  Murkle Bay to Brough Pier 13km,  Far North Bus Co. to Durness

SSE F3-F2, surf 1’-2’

Our last paddling day with an appropriate finishing highlight of rounding the mainland’s most northerly point – Dunnet Head. The rounding was celebrated by paddy doing a roll and Stewart touching the headland.

Another old naturally sheltered harbour at Brough provided the ideal finishing point and access for our minibus and trailer.

Eight days paddling to get here and 2 &1/2 hrs to return. Nice seeing the coast from a different perspective but nothing like the experience we had on the water.

Friday 19th Durness to Helensburgh & Dumbarton

Couple of stops on the way back and time to reflect on a great journey. The next part (2025) starts with the Merry Men of Mey and Duncansby Head after which it’s the east coast.

Summary

Total distance 162km  (140km going east and 22km waiting for conditions to improve)

Surf  & swell, too much at times but islands and old fishing harbours came to the rescue.

Thurso’s Electric Brae was a surprize to all.

What a remarkable paddle the north coast of Scotland is.

Durness Beach 10.7.24

West Of Faraid Head 11.7.24

Whiten Head 12.7.24

Farr Bay 13.7.24

Neave Island 14.7.24

Port a’ Chinn 15.7.24

Fresgoe Harbour 16.7.24

Strathy Point 16.7.24

Clett Rock 17.7.24

Dunnet Head 18.7.24

Helensburgh – RWSABC – Helensburgh, 31st March 24

Participants: Steve W, Gordon, Norrie, Stephen, Damien, Seb , Chris, Jessica, Mike

The first sea trip of the year was popularly supported. A gap in a windy and wet period was greatly appreciated.
10:00 met at RNYC to organise club boats before setting out in light easterly F2. Short stop at Meiklecross Bay before crossing over to the RWSABC. Lunch on the beach and chat with a couple of paddlers just heading out. Much interest shown in a Seb’s sleek and fast Taran. Crossing back to Rosneath peninsular was a bit more bouncy as wind picked up from east to the top of F3.
A really quick and efficient deep-water rescue carried out S. of peninsular A couple of us tried some rolling back at the RNYC, one a perfect 1st timer and me on 4th attempt!

Helensburgh – Newark Castle – Helensburgh 3rd Dec, 2023

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stuart McCartney, Geoff Riddington, Mark Newal


This was the last planned sea trip of the year, the date swapped with our usual bothy trip, which was held in November.
Frosty but calm F2 from EEN, cloudy with intermittent sun.
Launched from the slipway beside the new swimming pool. Water flat and smooth, under 1.5 hrs to Newark Castle via Ardmore.
Lunch by the castle and walk around the building.
5km run along shoreline between Port Glasgow and Greenock. We were not sure if the Great Dock was navigable through the Western end (it is) so took the route outside the sea wall. The sea became increasingly choppy with the wind against tide which was surprising given the relatively benign conditions.
On making the Clyde crossing towards Rosneath Point the conditions eased and we were followed into Helensburgh by a very friendly and inquisitive seal, often coming up and nosing the back of our boats.
Just back intime for the last of the daylight and 20km covered.