We set of in idyllic conditions from a stony beach below a layby just West of Roshven, making our way West and then South to just before Singing Sands. Stunning views of the Small Isles to the West and of the Cuillin to the North. Just as we were discussing what could make the trip better, we saw a Minke Whale a few hundred meters away.
We stopped for lunch just South of Smirisary although if we had paddled a little further we could have landed on a stunning sandy beach rather than a very rocky one. The sandy beach is more or less due West of the North end of Eilean Coille. This would mae an excellent camping spot although likely to quite busy – lots of people had walked in via Glenuig.
Another stop at the SW corner of Eilean Shona (another stunning beach). Then onto a wonderful camping spot – a grassy knoll at the East end of Camas an Lighe (aka Singing Sands), landing on the East side of an outcrop of rocks.
Day 2
NW F1-2. 24.5km
Lorna spotted some interesting tracks among the dog and human footprints on the beach – later identified as otter. We followed coast back up North and into the South Channel of Loch Moidart where we were pushed gently along by tide and wind. Lots of seals on the small skerries. We stopped for a leg stretch and explore at Castle Tioram (now very securely closed for access) before moving onto the small islet between Shona Beag and Riska Island for lunch. This had been described as an ideal camping spot in previous trip reports but we felt ours at Singing Sands was definitely superior.
We then paddled out of the North Channel and around Eilean Coille before another leg stretch at the beach identified the previous day. The final leg too us back to the cars. As we passed Samalaman Island a large flock of unusually silent birds (later identified as Manx Shearwater) alerted us to possible shoals of fish and we spotted a Minke Whale again in the distance.
The original plan for this year was to continue from last year’s finish at Brough round Duncansby Head and down the coast. Neap tides and what latterly turned out to be good for the start of the trip did not look so good for heading further south. As with some other sections already completed we reversed the direction starting at Nairn and heading north.
Drive up from Helensburgh with stops at Perth & Newtonmore.
Friday 20th Nairn to Rosemarkie S, F3, 20km
Launched on beach just to the west of River Nairn. Hugged coast round to Fort George staying clear of dredgers working off Whiteness Head. Lunch on beach and brief exploration of Fort George’s outer walls including the hound cemetery. Crossed Moray Firth to Rosemarkie finding a wild camp in the dunes and beach north of town.
Saturday 21st Rosemarkie to Balintore S, F3, 25km
Run up coast by Sutors Stacks, crossing Cromarty Firth for lunch on beach east of Nigg Ferry. Continued north looking for suitable camping but not finding anything until Balintore village where we were generously accommodated by a small Caravan & Camping Club site. The owner having been a professional salmon fisher gave us lots of recommendations along the Firth coast in case we needed refuge, which the forecast predicted we might. Just missed dinner at the local pub by 10 mins.
Fast run up the coast to Rockfield for a lunch stop. Continued in the afternoon to Tarbet Ness abandoning the original plan of Portmahomack due to strengthening SW winds and forecast that winds too strong for paddling tomorrow. Lovely camp in field just to south of Wilkhaven Pier. Tried contacting owner but told by his retired shepherdess that the family were away and that overnighting for kayakers would not be a problem.
Walked back along coast to Ballone Castle, then over to Portmahomack this time just managing to find a dinner at the golf club.
Monday 23rd Tarbet Ness W, F6
Whitetops everywhere vindicating plan for a day on shore. Walked up to the Robert Stevenson lighthouse and continued along coast path to Portmahomack. Inspected large whale skull bones just off the beach. Topped up provisions from the local shop followed by a super late lunch at the Carnegie Hall Coffee Shop. Back to camp site via road and lane.
Tuesday 24th Tarbet Ness to Brora SW, 2/3, 42km
Early start, with most of us needing a couple of hours from wake up at 05:00 to paddling at 07:00, thankfully no other early starts required on this trip. The strong winds dropped during the night and with them the sea settled and the sun came out. Stop at Portmahomack then long paddle around bay stopping at Loch Fleet entrance for lunch. Carried on in the afternoon with the following wind past Golspie and a camp in the dunes 2km north of Brora. The tide was fully out so a long carry of boats and equipment to get above HW. A speculative hope of using the official campsite proved unworkable as only two spaces left plus another carry across a golf course to reach it. A long day but great progress made and with it the possibility of getting to Wick by the end of the week.
Wednesday 25th Brora to Berridale S, F2/3, 29km
Another long walk to get the boats launched. A fair wind and slight sea soon saw us to Helmsdale. Along the way we kept seeing a walker following the shoreline, sometimes ahead of us other times trailing. A lunch stop in town at a café where we met up with the walker who it turns out to be walking the John O Groats Trail (Inverness to JOG) but in his case he had started at Lands End 3 months earlier. The afternoon was spent working our way up to Berridale where a great camp was found nearby some old fishing cottages. Another JOG trail walker also came to camp nearby. Explored the river area crossing the two-person suspension bridge.
Thursday 26th Berridale to The Haven near Sarclet. W then SW, F4, 37km
Passed by An Dun natural arch and great photo of Stuart taken by Gordon (bound to feature in the next photo competition). The rock strata here like that east of Thurso runs at an incline to the horizontal giving an illusion of paddling down or uphill
Stopped for break at Dunbeath and continued onto Lybster for lunch at cafe in front of the harbour.
We had expected a stop at Whaligoe Steps but could see nothing suitable (the clue was in the name!) Pressed onto The Haven which fortunately had room for four tents. Only able to get a weather update from the hill above the bay which indicated a solid F4 from the S.
Friday 27th The Haven to Wick. W, F4, 11km
Decided that we could split into two groups for the day, Steve & Paddy on an early shift to get Paddy on the way S to collect the vehicle from Nairn and Gordon and Stuart getting a more leisurely start and as it turned out a much less bumpy passage. Tide low at Wick so a bit of wading and towing required to get our boats up to the campsite on Wick River. A superb campsite well worth the haul up the river.
With Paddy back from Nairn we headed into town for a couple of beers and a curry, suitably finishing off a great week.
Saturday 28th Wick to Helensburgh
Headed south with stops for breakfast in Brora and lunch at Newtonmore.
A little dubious that the east coast would not offer the spectacular coastline of the west and the north, we were not disappointed – it’s a magical place and well worth return visits.
Although we did not manage the Merry Men of May and Duncansby Head reversing our original plan allowed us to get a full week of paddling, mostly with the wind in our favour. We are all looking forward to returning to the far northeast to complete the corner.
Helensburgh to Helensburgh via Lochs Long & Lomond, Leven & Clyde
June 6th – 8th, 2025
Participants: Steve Wheaton, Rem Fowler, Gotz Bucher, Damien Theaker – complete trip Alice Hewson – Fri & Sun, Jim, Seb Lay, Stephen Hearns – Sun
Tidal estuary, a long loch, camping, portaging, inland loch, camping on an island, two rivers and another portage.
Friday 6th June, F3 from West, 33Km
Helensburgh to Guanan 29Km (4km North of Mark Bothy)
Steve & Damien walked boats down from homes (no car weekend for us). Met Rem & Alice and headed out around 1300. Bit of a push into a head wind off southern end of Kilcreggan peninsula but easier going when off the wind down loch Long. Gotz joined us at Cove, break on Ardentinney beach and onto campsite at Guanan. A sheltered eastern shore, damp and humid, no breeze, and yes we were not the only ones there. Alice who had experience of the site in the same conditions declared she was carrying on to her home at Succoth. Despite a good beach bon fire we all gave up after eating our suppers from under midge hats and were all in our beds for 21:30.
Saturday 7th June, F3-4 from North West
Guanan to Inchmurrin 30Km (including 3Km portage)
Breakfasted, suited up from within our tents we were quickly in our boats and enjoying a bug free paddle to the head of the loch. The portage over from Arrocher to Tarbet is a delight and taking about an hour thirty not much longer than a regular walk. Coffee and snacks at the Cruise Loch Lomond cafe then headed down Loch Lomond with a nice tail wind. A great camp site at the north end of Inchmurrin with sunhine, a breeze and no neighbours other than a small motorboat.
Sunday 8th June, F3 from West South West
Inchmurrin to Helensburgh 31Km.
0800 start to meet up again with Alice, plus Jim, Seb & Stephen H at the entrance to the River Leven. Portage around the Balloch Barrage then lovely run down the river in bright sunshine. A lunch stop on the edge of Leven Grove Park before heading down river with a following tide but head wind to Ardmore. Brief stop then off the wind to Helensburgh Pier for 1700.
Ice creams from Dino’s to fuel a one-mile portage up the hill home for a couple of us.
The original plan had been to paddle round Lismore with an overnight stop at the South of the island. However, with very strong winds forecast for Sunday, we curtailed it to a day trip.
We set off from the northerly of the two laybys opposite Shuna on the A828 (OS 937503) as launching here is easier.
Heading south round the outside of Shuna, we were buzzed by the Waverly as we made our way across to the skerries into a stiff head wind and choppy seas. After a quick leg stretch at the northern bay of Rubha Ban, we continued south to Castle Coeffin for lunch.
The journey back north was much easier with the wind behind us, passing seals perched on the last bits of drying rock as the tide rose. As we followed the northern coast of Lismore round to Port Ramsay we saw goats on Eilean Ramsay and an otter swimming across the channel in front of us.
Another quick stop by the Lime Kilns on Eilean nan Caorach, a quick circumavigation of Castle Stalker before heading back up the Sound of Shuna and home.
Steve W, Gordon, Norrie, Geoff, Stuart McC, Alice, Finn, Seb,
Sunday 27th April , F4 from south, 21Km
Not the greatest forecast with gusty winds from the south and an ebbing spring tide to start into. Eight of us set out from just north of the ferry car park and within the hour made it round to Gylen Castle for a look, always worth the visit. Quite choppy relaunching but everyone safely afloat. Ardmore Bay saw one of the team rolled and so very nearly self recovered, but quickly and efficiently rescued by Gordon & Stuart, the rest of the team standing by.
We took a lunch stop out of the chop and wind at Port Phadruig, just as the rain started and finished as we headed back out!
Lovely brisk run up the west coast and after rounding the top of the island back into the weather again down to Heather Island before getting some shelter off the mainland and returning to our start point.
Rain washed, a little tired but happily completed one of several island rounding’s planned for this year. Hoping for better weather on the next one.
First club paddle of the year. A glassy day with even less wind than forecast and occasional glimpses of sun.
We launched from the beach to the West of Helnsburgh Pier – the slipway being inaccessable due to the cordons for the pool roof. Took in the sugar ship and Ardmore Pointon route to Newark Castle. The sugar ship definitely looking the worse for wear after the storms with large cracks and and buckling around the hull and large splits in the deck.
Returned along the north edge of the shipping channel, watching “Craner Swift” and “UCrane Bolt” unloading a container ship. The crossed back over to Rosneath Point passing an anchored naval boat for a leg stretch before returning to Helensburgh pier.
The Tay was another first for Iain, and both Iain and Chris had the new experience of paddling river running kayaks, which they found have a bit of a different feel compared to the touring kayaks they have been used to. As well as being more fun to paddle, the river runners also gave the opportunity for some rescue practice, which is always good to have, even in December!
Jessi, who had been enjoying some shopping in Perth, met us afterwards and we all headed to Stewart Tower Dairy to indulge in their irresistible ice cream.
Great way to end a year of fabulous river paddling with Helensburgh Canoe Club!
Thanks to everyone who came along on the trips and looking forward to more white water adventures in 2025!
Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Gotz Butcher, Mags Elliott, Adrian Curtis, Damien Theaker, Seb Lay, Geoff Riddington, Mike Bignall, Andy Bignall, Colin Hosey.
Sunday 8th December F3 / 4 from north
Last club paddle of the year. With storm Darragh still blowing all around, a little swathe of relative tranquillity allowed us to get out on our local loch. Ben Lomond with an early covering of snow and the sun shining, what better venue for a couple of paddlers new to the club.
We had tentatively planned a circumnavigation of all the main islands but a longish lunch on Inchcailloch saw us forego the southern islands and take the more direct run back to Luss via the narrows.
The trip almost didn’t happen today as there was so much snow yesterday I thought I would have to cancel it, however, the forecast for today promised mild, dry weather with even some sun, so we decided to risk it and luckily we were blessed with a beautiful day!
The Awe turned out to be on a slightly bigger release than usual but still okay for us to run, and Chris and Iain took it in their stride. The water was more powerful and eddying out challenging, but the rocks were less exposed making the rapids less technical.
The Magnetic Rock rapid was particularly big and bouncy and Chris and Iain made the most of it by coming down twice!
The photos were taken towards the end of the river when we were able to relax and paddle gently into Loch Etive.
Paddlers: Al, Colin, Damien, Edward, Geoff, Seb, Stephen H
Conditions: Light Southerly breeze veering to stiff westerly F3-4.
Distance: 16km
Even after a couple of dropouts a big turnout – 11 of us altogether, necessitating some assistant leaders. We set of from Helensburgh Pier in almost still, misty (or atmospheric) conditions and paddled a little way up the Gareloch to minimise crossing distances and then followed shore round to just West of Kilchreggan Pier for lunch. The sun duly came out but the wind also veered to Westerly and picked up – the crossing over to Royal West at Greenock was quite lumpy. Deciding discretion was the better part of valour we headed back across to Kilchreggan peninsula to get some shelter rather than returning via the sugar ship as originally intended.
Quite a few eider ducks and a couple of seals poking their heads up but generally not much wild life seen. The Hebridean Princess crossed in front of us as we were crossing back to Rosneath Peninsular and surprised us by heading up into the Gareloch and anchoring off Rhu Marina.
As a grand finale, we were treated to a demonstration of Paddy’s fish roll – ask him about it!
