Club Expedition Balnakeil to Brough, 10th – 19th July 2024

Club Expedition Balnakeil to Brough

July 10^th – 19^th 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stewart McCartney, Paddy Muir

This trip is a continuation from four earlier trips: Helensburgh / Oban May 2019, Oban / Arisaig Sept 2021, Ullapool / Arisaig Sept 2022 and Ullapool / Balnakeil 2023.

Put back from original planned date in early May due other commitments within the team.

Team of four. Three experienced and one new to multiday trips.

Period before dominated with several weeks of northerly winds.

Loose arrangement with Durness Bus Co to pick us up on 18^th / 19^th from as far as Wick.

Wed 10^th Helensburgh to Durness

We decided that using one vehicle and a local bus company with a trailer to pick us up would give the greatest flexibility and ease some of the burden of driving. It is a long way to the roof of Scotland but lots of chat, a couple of stops and we were soon putting up tents at Durness Campsite. Lots of rolling waves and white tops coming into the bay!

Thu 11^th Balnakeil to Eilean Hoan, 15km.

N F3-4, surf 3’

Our vehicle and trailer were safely left at the community hall and we set off from Balnakeil Bay into a smallish swell that increased substantially as we approached and rounded Faraid Head. Once clear of the headland and heading SW the swell eased and the paddling became drier. Not fancying surfing into Sango Bay we continued east to Eilean Hoan and the shelter of its southern shores. The island has an RSPB shelter which visitors are invited to use, this made an ideal setting for our evening cooking and dining.

Fri 12^th Eilean Hoan to Farr Bay, 35km

WNW F3, surf 3’

Crossed the mouth of Loch Eriboll and short stop SW of Whiten Head for slack water and the start of the E. going stream. Spectacular caves and arches along this coast. Useable landing spots though are rare along this section of coast until East Strathan where we stopped for a break at a sheltered small inlet W. of the beaches. Lunch on Eilean nan Ron. Though tempted by Neave Islands sheltered beaches we pressed onto Farr Bay. The bay is described as a ‘user friendly surfing beach’ – which it was going in on the SW corner. Camp and dinner made in the dunes above the beach we then headed for the very nice Betty Hill Hotel for a stretch of the legs and a couple of drinks.

Sat 13^th Farr Bay Neave Island

ENE F3, surf 3’-4’

The surf had been predicted to settle and even fall, but in the event had stepped up. Luckily, our position by the burn looked the calmest area of the beach. My timing on breaking out was not the best but at least the others could then rush out in slightly better conditions, even so, Stewart had his paddles and maps dislodged, Paddy was rolled but quickly rolled back up and Gordon got a black eye from a wave hitting his glasses. Beyond the breakers we regrouped caught our breath and after a quick look in the direction of Farr Point headed back W. to Neave Island and its sheltered S beaches. Afternoon spent exploring the island and considering options for the rest of the week against a forecast looking unsettled and winds stubbornly staying in the N.

Sun 14^th Neave Is. to Skullomie to Neave Is. 17km

ENE F3, surf 3’-4’

Decision made to not go E. for Farr Point and instead explore Skerray Bay and the coast W.and S. to Scullomie Harbour. Back at Neave Island for a second night and the hope that the late forecast of the wind backing to the NW might improve conditions for tomorrow. (The forecast for the E and W coasts was not favourable as alternative venues and even though our conditions were not ideal, they were, by virtue of us being between two separate weather systems better than other areas, so decided to press on E).

Mon 15^th Neave Is. To Port a’ Chinn (Armadale) 19km

NW F3, surf 2’-3’

Needing to renew water supplies we tried Torrisdale Bay and the Pier at Bettyhill but surf too large at the river bar. Continued round to Glaisgeo where we used a rocky inlet to wait for slack water at Farr Point. Several interesting caves and features explored on way to the point. Some swell at the point but more sheltered on E. side. Kirtomy Bay for lunch. We were approached by a retired professional photographer recording the old harbour and presumably thinking we were appropriate weather-beaten additions, he had us posing for several compositions with the promise we would get a copies. Afternoon continued round to Port a’ Chinn a surprisingly sheltered old fishing harbour just W. of Armadale Bay. An aerial cable from the station buildings to the harbour still exists. A steep climb up a track via the old fishing station gave us a tap and chance to renew water.

Tue 16^th Port a’ Chinn (Armadale) to Fresgoe Harbour 28km

WNW F3, surf 2’-3’

Crossed Armadale Bay exploring caves and arches at Geodh’ Ruadh and Boursa Is. Stop for lunch in sheltered inlet W. of Totegan and waited for slack and start of E going stream off Strathy Pt. Potentially one of the most exposed headlands on our trip we were grateful for the decreased swell from what we experienced earlier on and rounded the point with no drama. A pleasant stop at Port Skerra W. of Melvich Bay and some restocking of treats from a little shop, even a whole change of diet for one of the team that had been living from dehydrated rations since starting and was craving real food. Crossed Melvich Bay to Sandside Harbour at Fresgoe and yet another sheltered surf free refuge with enough room on the grassy keyside for 4 tents. The harbour even has a toilet 800m away, but best of all avoids the sinister reputation of the beach that has warnings of radioactive particles being found.

The view E. from the harbour looks straight onto the nuclear facility of Dounreay which is currently being decommissioned.

Wed 17^th Fresgoe Harbour to Murkle Bay 34km

SW F2 and veering NW F3 in afternoon, surf 1’-2’

With the weather and swell settling nicely we continued E. past Dounreay with its lights and noises from decommissioning work, past what until now we had not seen much of – a low coastline with a backdrop of cultivated grassland. A lunch stop at Crosskirk and a walk up to St. Mary’s Chapel. After Crosskirk the coastline returns to cliffs, caves and arches. We rounded Brims Ness in lovely conditions and continued along as spectacular a section of coast as any seen so far. Of greatest note is Clett Rock just prior to Holborn Head, the cliffs either side of the channel between the rock and the mainland creates an optical illusion of the water falling downhill from W to E. – Thurso’s own electric brae.

A stop in Thurso was made for ice creams and provisions, followed by a final 6km push round to Murkle Bay and a peaceful campsite in the dunes.

Thu 18^th Murkle Bay to Brough Pier 13km, Far North Bus Co. to Durness

SSE F3-F2, surf 1’-2’

Our last paddling day with an appropriate finishing highlight of rounding the mainland’s most northerly point – Dunnet Head. The rounding was celebrated by paddy doing a roll and Stewart touching the headland.

Another old naturally sheltered harbour at Brough provided the ideal finishing point and access for our minibus and trailer.

Eight days paddling to get here and 2 &1/2 hrs to return. Nice seeing the coast from a different perspective but nothing like the experience we had on the water.

Friday 19^th Durness to Helensburgh & Dumbarton

Couple of stops on the way back and time to reflect on a great journey. The next part (2025) starts with the Merry Men of Mey and Duncansby Head after which it’s the east coast.

Summary

Total distance 162km (140km going east and 22km waiting for conditions to improve)

Surf & swell, too much at times but islands and old fishing harbours came to the rescue.

Thurso’s Electric Brae was a surprize to all.

What a remarkable paddle the north coast of Scotland is.

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