Author: Stephen Wheaton

Expedition – Nairn to Peterhead

Friday June 26^th – Saturday 4^th July 2026

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stuart McCartney, Paddy Muir

7^th Season of the Continuation Around Scotland from Helensburgh

Last season, we started at Nairn, headed north and finished at Wick. This year, the plan was to continue from Nairn with the aim of reaching Fraserburgh or Peterhead, possibly Aberdeen. If conditions allowed, we would begin the week by completing the Brough to Wick section missed last year. The conditions were unsuitable, so this will be completed later.

Friday 26^th June Helensburgh to Nairn

Paddy provided his trusty Mitsubishi Barbarian and Stuart his trailer. This again enabled us to use just one vehicle which would be retrieved by public transport from wherever the paddle finished. The scenic route via Loch Tay was taken with a refreshment stop at Newtonmore. Camp set up at Kinchylie Farm and into town for a curry.

Saturday 27^th Nairn to Burghead Bay.  F4 from west, 25km

Sandy beaches all the way today. Lunch on beach 5K west of Findhorn. Into Findhorn Harbour for ice creams. Camp set up above beach 5K SSW of Burghead. Though north facing this time of year gives both sunrise and set. The midge free sunset was a pleasure enjoyed for the whole trip.

Sunday 28th Burghead Bay to Spey Bay. F3/4 from west. 37km

Burghead Bay had picked up a bit of swell overnight so quite happy to pop into Burghead Harbour where we met with friends up from Helensburgh. Stopped at Clashach Cove for a break, the area east and west of this having many interesting caves to explore. Lunch on beach just east of Lossiemouth. A long paddle with few features followed around Spey Bay. Checked out the camp site by Spey Bay golf course but too far from the beach (and the bar was closed) so headed further along for a wild camp west of Port Gordon.

Monday 29^th Spey Bay to Boyne Bay. F/4 from west. 32km

Leisurely 0900 start with wind and even a little tide gave us fast run up the coast with interesting harbours at Buckie, Findochty and Portnockie. The coast rises up from Findochty with the surprise of Bow Fiddle Rock suddenly appearing after Portnockie. Cullen was the obvious choice for a café lunch and some of its famous soup. On round to Findlater Castle dramatically perched on a cliff. Sandend had been considered as a camp but the consensus was to keep onto the bright lights of Portsoy. Checked out the harbour and its sandy beach, yet despite a campsite (showers) and a pub, the team view was to again push on another few Km to just beyond Cowhythe Head in Boyne Bay and a secluded wild camp.    

Tuesday 30^th Boyne Bay  – Pennan Bay. F3 from west. 32km

0900 paddling with a fair wind from the west and a destination of Pennan Bay an achievable +30 Km away. Late morning into Banff harbour and chats with the harbourmaster and a local marine life enthusiast. Told that we had just missed some orcas that were moving in the opposite direction to us. Across Banff Bay and a brief look in the harbour then further round by the art deco open air pool. Lots of caves and interesting rock features along to Gardenstown before Troup Head which is one of the few features on this coast that we planned around a helping tide. The head is home to the only colony of gannets in Scotland and most of them seemed to be in. Found a nice wild camp just west of Pennan village. Spruced up and ready for a good dinner in the pub featured in Local Hero we ventured round the headland on foot to find Tuesday is closing day.

Wednesday 1^st July Pennan Bay to Fraserbrough F3/2 from west. 22km

Paddled in close to Pennan village seeing why it was chosen as an idyllic film setting. The coastline still very vertiginous with caves and stacks to explore through Aberdour Bay before starting to level out towards Rosehearty where we stopped for lunch. PM spent continuing round to Fraserbrough where we had plans to hole up for a day to see out a forecast of F7. Forewent the option of a wild camp on Fraserbrough Bay to use the private site just off the beach on the east side of town. Bit of a portage up from the beach but an ideal place for a couple of nights and a day ashore. Into town for our second curry on the trip.    

Thursday 2^nd Fraserbrough F7 from NW

As forecast the wind got going through the night and lifted the seas to white tops all around.

Breakfast in the town’s Wetherspoon’s. Paddy on a bus and train to retrieve the truck and trailer from Nairn then deliver it to Peterhead. We all enjoyed a wander around town and a visit to the excellent Maritime Museum, the first part of the guided tour taking us round the original lighthouse built within the castle walls.

With Paddy safely back curry number three was taken at our favourite curry house. Fraserbrough Bay still looked rough as we turned in.

Friday 3^rd Fraserbrough to Peterhead F3 from west. 35km

Early start to get boats down to the beach and out to the low tide. Rattray Head is known to have confused seas with a tide running so planned for slack water to enable us to get a good look round the lighthouse. Fast run across Fraserbrough Bay then a change of direction heading south with shelter from the land. Short stop at St Combs and on to Rattray following miles of sandy beaches in front of dunes. We managed to get close into the lighthouse which usually appears in the shipping forecast and is well worth a look. The St Fergus gas terminal dominates the coast beyond Rattray. With wind that has any easterly in it the beaches are well known for surf but not today so we were able to run ashore easily a couple of times for breaks.

Our final destination of Peterhead soon appeared. We camped at the town ground on the west side of the large harbour. Showers, refreshments and curry number four!     

Saturday 4^th Fraserbrough to Helensburgh

Drive back with breakfast on the way.

Again, we were delightfully surprised with the variety and interest of the coastline, parts of which matched anything we had seen further north and in the west. The weather had been kind other than for one day off the water which was fortunate as Fraserbrough is worth a visit. Like all previous sections of our Odyssey there were many other places it would have been good to tarry and explore. As we always say at the end of these yearly adventures, we will be back.

Nairn 27.6.26

West of Port Gordon 28.6.26

Bow Fiddle 29.6.26

Findlater Castle 29.6.26

Gannets West of Pennan 30.6.26

East of Pennan 1.7.26

Aberdour Bay 1.7.26

Fraserbrough 2.7.26

Rattray Lighthouse 3.7.26

HCC Trip Report

Newark Castle

May 10^th ,2026

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Paddy Muir, Geoff Riddington, Stephen Mckeown, John Young

F3 – 4 from NW

Lovely fast paddle with a following wind to Newark Castle. Lunch in the grounds. Paddle back along southern shore. Wind brisker than anticipated from which some respite was obtained by transiting the Great Harbour. Low tide required short portage at west end below the bridge. Continued by U Crane Bolt and Craner Swift before striking north for Rosneath Point. Gusty F4 from NW made for a choppy crossing that included some towing practice. Still blowy from Rosneath to Helensburgh Pier but paddling further off the wind and so a bit easier.  Of-course 2 hours after getting back the wind dropped and the estuary was flat calm!

Though good experience for a couple of paddlers that had not previously been out in windy conditions and a choppy sea, the alternative option of initially heading west to Kilcreggan / Loch Long would have been a better choice for the day.

December 14th, 2025

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stuart McCartney, Martin Tidestrom

F4 from south

Another year nearly away so fast and the last club paddle this season. No storm alert this year just a yellow heavy rain warning for Argyle & Bute!

As usual once in our boats and paddling it all felt worthwhile. Hugging the western shore we headed south to Tarbet and a lunch stop in the little pavilion by the café. Gordon supplied the mince pies.

One & half hours down but with the wind in our favour, one hour back. A little bit of surfing was possible, with Martin’s new Tiderace much quicker on the waves than the other three more traditional boats.

Thank goodness this was in the calendar as left to our own devices it would have been a day to have spent indoors and yet, having made the effort so good to have been out on the loch.

Participants Steve Wheaton, Geoff Riddington, Edward Homson.

Wind SW F4 with strong gusts, 11Km

A dreich day saved by having a lovely venue with shelter from the wind when needed before putting us in position for the run back with a following wind .

Set out from Luss and headed south via a brief look in the river to Rossdhu Castle, then north east via Inchgalbraith and a second castle to a lunch stop on Inchtavannach. Lunch over and rain starting again we passed through the Straits and returned to luss.

Arduaine, Puilladobhrain, Sound of Luing, Arduaine

September 27^th & 28^th 2025

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Edward Homson

Saturday 27^th, F4 & Strong Gusts from SSE, 14Km

Arduaine to Puilladobhrain

Atrocious windy & wet weather, not surprising only three of us out today. With the wind running with us, very rapid progress was made across the mouth of Loch Melford and Seil Sound. Through the rain we spotted seals, a dolphin and a sea eagle. Arrived at Clachan Bridge near low water (neaps) and decided to give it a try with the fall back that we would return to the pub if unnavigable. We got through with a few inches to spare. Made camp at the head of the bay and not even bothering to change, headed along the path to the pub.   Blazing fire, the 2^nd half of the Ladies Rugby World Cup final and a couple of drinks. Tempting as it was to make an evening of it we returned to camp where, confined by weather to our tents, made supper and retired.

Sunday 28th, F1-2 from S, 30km

Puilladobhrain to Arduaine via Sound of Luing

Bright,sunny and not a midge anywhere. Breakfasted and paddling just after 0900. Near HW so out through a gap below Eilean Buidhe into the Firth of Lorn where we were straight away surrounded by pods of Dolphins busy feeding. They stayed with us to Easdale where we stopped for coffee. With the options of returning through Cuan Sound or taking the longer route south through the Sound of Luing, the great weather and a couple of hours of favourable tide saw us heading south. The dolphins were still with us and numbers appeared to increase. Of all trips not to have brought cameras! Luckily, we had our phones.  

Stopped for lunch at the bottom of Luing and caught the north going tide back up to Arduaine.

A great day made very memorable by the wildlife.

June 19^th – 28^th 2025

Thursday 19^th Helensburgh – Nairn

The original plan for this year was to continue from last year’s finish at Brough round Duncansby Head and down the coast. Neap tides and what latterly turned out to be good for the start of the trip did not look so good for heading further south. As with some other sections already completed we reversed the direction starting at Nairn and heading north.

Drive up from Helensburgh with stops at Perth & Newtonmore.

Friday 20^th Nairn to Rosemarkie S, F3, 20km

Launched on beach just to the west of River Nairn. Hugged coast round to Fort George staying clear of dredgers working off Whiteness Head. Lunch on beach and brief exploration of Fort George’s outer walls including the hound cemetery. Crossed Moray Firth to Rosemarkie finding a wild camp in the dunes and beach north of town.  

Saturday 21^st Rosemarkie to Balintore S, F3, 25km

Run up coast by Sutors Stacks, crossing Cromarty Firth for lunch on beach east of Nigg Ferry. Continued north looking for suitable camping but not finding anything until Balintore village where we were generously accommodated by a small Caravan & Camping Club site. The owner having been a professional salmon fisher gave us lots of recommendations along the Firth coast in case we needed refuge, which the forecast predicted we might. Just missed dinner at the local pub by 10 mins.

Sunday 22^nd SW, F3/4 Balintore to Tarbet Ness  SW, F3/4, 16km

Fast run up the coast to Rockfield for a lunch stop. Continued in the afternoon to Tarbet Ness abandoning the original plan of Portmahomack due to strengthening SW winds and forecast that winds too strong for paddling tomorrow. Lovely camp in field just to south of Wilkhaven Pier. Tried contacting owner but told by his retired shepherdess that the family were away and that overnighting for kayakers would not be a problem.

Walked back along coast to Ballone Castle, then over to Portmahomack this time just managing to find a dinner at the golf club.

Monday 23^rd Tarbet Ness W, F6

Whitetops everywhere vindicating plan for a day on shore. Walked up to the Robert Stevenson lighthouse and continued along coast path to Portmahomack. Inspected large whale skull bones just off the beach. Topped up provisions from the local shop followed by a super late lunch at the Carnegie Hall Coffee Shop. Back to camp site via road and lane.

Tuesday 24^th Tarbet Ness to Brora SW, 2/3, 42km

Early start, with most of us needing a couple of hours from wake up at 05:00 to paddling at 07:00, thankfully no other early starts required on this trip. The strong winds dropped during the night and with them the sea settled and the sun came out. Stop at Portmahomack then long paddle around bay stopping at Loch Fleet entrance for lunch. Carried on in the afternoon with the following wind past Golspie and a camp in the dunes 2km north of Brora. The tide was fully out so a long carry of boats and equipment to get above HW. A speculative hope of using the official campsite proved unworkable as only two spaces left plus another carry across a golf course to reach it. A long day but great progress made and with it the possibility of getting to Wick by the end of the week.

Wednesday 25^th Brora to Berridale S, F2/3, 29km

 Another long walk to get the boats launched. A fair wind and slight sea soon saw us to Helmsdale. Along the way we kept seeing a walker following the shoreline, sometimes ahead of us other times trailing.  A lunch stop in town at a café where we met up with the walker who it turns out to be walking the John O Groats Trail (Inverness to JOG) but in his case he had started at Lands End 3 months earlier. The afternoon was spent working our way up to Berridale where a great camp was found nearby some old fishing cottages. Another JOG trail walker also came to camp nearby. Explored the river area crossing the two-person suspension bridge.  

Thursday 26^th Berridale to The Haven near Sarclet.  W then SW, F4, 37km

Passed by An Dun natural arch and great photo of Stuart taken by Gordon (bound to feature in the next photo competition). The rock strata here like that west of Thurso runs at an incline to the horizontal giving an illusion of paddling down or uphill

Stopped for break at Dunbeath and continued onto Lybster for lunch at cafe in front of the harbour.

We had expected a stop at Whaligoe Steps but could see nothing suitable (the clue was in the name!) Pressed onto The Haven which fortunately had room for four tents. Only able to get a weather update from the hill above the bay which indicated a solid F4 from the S.

Friday 27^th The Haven to Wick. W, F4, 11km

Decided that we could split into two groups for the day, Steve & Paddy on an early shift to get Paddy on the way S to collect the vehicle from Nairn and Gordon and Stuart getting a more leisurely start and as it turned out a much less bumpy passage. Tide low at Wick so a bit of wading and towing required to get our boats up to the campsite on Wick River. A superb campsite well worth the haul up the river.  

With Paddy back from Nairn we headed into town for a couple of beers and a curry, suitably finishing off a great week.  

Saturday 28^th Wick to Helensburgh

Headed south with stops for breakfast in Brora and lunch at Newtonmore.

A little dubious that the east coast would not offer the spectacular coastline of the west and the north, we were not disappointed – it’s a magical place and well worth return visits.

Although we did not manage the Merry Men of May and Duncansby Head reversing our original plan allowed us to get a full week of paddling, mostly with the wind in our favour. We are all looking forward to returning to the far northeast to complete the corner.

Seals off Witness Head

Fort George

Mermaids off Balintore

Tarbet Ness Camp

Dunrobin Castle

Berridale

The Haven

Wick River Shallows

Helensburgh to Helensburgh via Lochs Long & Lomond, Leven & Clyde

June 6^th – 8^th, 2025

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Rem Fowler, Gotz Bucher, Damien Theaker – complete trip Alice Hewson – Fri & Sun, Jim, Seb Lay, Stephen Hearns – Sun

Tidal estuary, a long loch, camping, portaging, inland loch, camping on an island, two rivers and another portage.

Friday 6^th June, F3 from West, 33Km

Helensburgh to Guanan 29Km (4km North of Mark Bothy)

Steve & Damien walked boats down from homes (no car weekend for us). Met Rem & Alice and headed out around 1300. Bit of a push into a head wind off southern end of Kilcreggan peninsula but easier going when off the wind down loch Long. Gotz joined us at Cove, break on Ardentinney beach and onto campsite at Guanan. A sheltered eastern shore, damp and humid, no breeze, and yes we were not the only ones there. Alice who had experience of the site in the same conditions declared she was carrying on to her home at Succoth. Despite a good beach bon fire we all gave up after eating our suppers from under midge hats and were all in our beds for 21:30.   

Saturday 7^th June, F3-4  from North West

Guanan to Inchmurrin 30Km (including 3Km portage)

Breakfasted, suited up from within our tents we were quickly in our boats and enjoying a bug free paddle to the head of the loch. The portage over from Arrocher to Tarbet is a delight and taking about an hour thirty not much longer than a regular walk. Coffee and snacks at the Cruise Loch Lomond cafe then headed down Loch Lomond with a nice tail wind. A great camp site at the north end of Inchmurrin with sunhine, a breeze and no neighbours other than a small motorboat.     

Sunday 8^th June, F3 from West South West

Inchmurrin to Helensburgh 31Km.

0800 start to meet up again with Alice, plus Jim, Seb & Stephen H at the entrance to the River Leven.  Portage around the Balloch Barrage then lovely run down the river in bright sunshine. A lunch stop on the edge of Leven Grove Park before heading down river with a following tide but head wind to Ardmore. Brief stop then off the wind to Helensburgh Pier for 1700.

Ice creams from Dino’s to fuel a one-mile portage up the hill home for a couple of us.

Steve W, Gordon, Norrie, Geoff, Stuart McC, Alice, Finn, Seb,

Sunday 27th April , F4 from south, 21Km

Not the greatest forecast with gusty winds from the south and an ebbing spring tide to start into. Eight of us set out from just north of the ferry car park and within the hour made it round to Gylen Castle for a look, always worth the visit. Quite choppy relaunching but everyone safely afloat. Ardmore Bay saw one of the team rolled and so very nearly self recovered, but quickly and efficiently rescued by Gordon & Stuart, the rest of the team standing by.

We took a lunch stop out of the chop and wind at Port Phadruig, just as the rain started and finished as we headed back out!

Lovely brisk run up the west coast and after rounding the top of the island back into the weather again down to Heather Island before getting some shelter off the mainland and returning to our start point.

Rain washed, a little tired but happily completed one of several island rounding’s planned for this year. Hoping for better weather on the next one.

Ancient Home of the McDougalls

Was JS here?

Out in a new boat and its not even his.

Happy in the weather

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Gotz Butcher, Mags Elliott, Adrian Curtis, Damien Theaker, Seb Lay, Geoff Riddington, Mike Bignall, Andy Bignall, Colin Hosey.

Sunday 8^th December F3 / 4 from north

Last club paddle of the year. With storm Darragh still blowing all around, a little swathe of relative tranquillity allowed us to get out on our local loch. Ben Lomond with an early covering of snow and the sun shining, what better venue for a couple of paddlers new to the club.

We had tentatively planned a circumnavigation of all the main islands but a longish lunch on Inchcailloch saw us forego the southern islands and take the more direct run back to Luss via the narrows.

Great finish to a lovely season.

October 18^th & 19^th 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stewart McCartney

The bothy was booked in January with the hope that the weather would be fair and that members with all abilities could attend. Instead, we had a yellow then amber Met Office Weather Warning and the first named storm of the year – Ashley.

Friday 18th       F8 from south-east through day dropping F4 – 3 in evening

From the 10 members initially showing interest in the trip 3 of us travelled up in Gordon’s smart new electric car. After a short stop for food at Fort William and a boost for the car we arrived at Glenuig to see a flattish sea but with spray lifting offshore. As forecast, this subsided and we departed from inside Samalaman Island east along the coast to Roshven before heading north to Peanmeanach. A clearing western sky heralded a calmer day for tomorrow.

Peanmeanach Bothy has been taken back into management by the Ardnish Estate and is only available by prior booking. It is a popular place as testified by the website booking calendar and deservedly so. We enjoyed a pleasant evening warmed by the wood burning stove until the early hours.      

Saturday 19^th     F3 from south-east

Relieved to see the forecast was accurate we decided to explore loch Ailort. Alerted to the prospect of seeing sea eagles by a couple scallop farmers off Eilean nan Trom one immediately came into view overhead quartering the hills. Slack water saw us easily passing through the narrows and on to Eilean Dubh near the head of the loch. After lunch taken on the south shore we headed back west against the tide which was only noticeable in the narrows. We stopped on Eilean nan Gobhar and climbed to the ruins of a fort for views all around.

Drizzle then rain, a portent of the coming gale saw us return to Samalaman Island.  

We had planned a second night in the bothy but though the forecast showed a two-hour gap in Sunday’s gales those with day jobs on Monday wisely considered it too risky.

The electric car got us home in great style via a short re charge and fish and chips for us in Fort William.