HCC Trip Report

St. Abbs Harbour to Belhaven Beach, Dunbar

Sep 21^st – 22^nd , 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Stewart McCartney, Andy Bignall, Elspeth Mckechan

This trip was planned for last year on two weekends but thwarted on both by high winds. This year the winds were just ok but blowing from the NE as they had been for the previous week. Tides were at full springs and being the autumn equinox another 20% over average.

Sat Sept 21^st    NE F4 and mist

Originally we had planned to start from Coldingham beach. A local surfing competition was in full progress which was a good clue that despite being great for youngsters and derring-do feats our fully laden sea kayaks would be more easily launched from the nearby St. Abbs Harbour.

We used the car park at the harbour for two vehicles and a trailer (£20 per vehicle), finding a gap for the trailer behind a skip avoiding an extra charge.

An easy exit from the harbour, then around St. Abbs Head into quite a lumpy sea with a cross swell that had clearly developed over the previous week. Some respite after Pettico Wick but the swell required vigilance.

This section of coast has limited egress points, particularly in an onshore wind. Two stops were managed the first at Heather Carr and then at Hirst Rocks. Checked Pease Bay for camping spots but little scope seen and moved up to Cove Harbour. Just enough room for our tents on the beach. The harbour is privately owned having been purchased to avoid development. It is though very small and where would have ordinarily picked a remote wild camp, given the swell and surf it was most welcome. Cove Harbour Conservation Ltd. have responsibility for it’s upkeep and maintenance and we made a donation in reparation for our unannounced stay.

Sun Sept 22^nd    NE F3 cloudy

Still plenty of cross swell to contend with. Two of the party decided to shorten their trip just south of Torness at Thorntonloch. Three of us continued to White Sands stopping for lunch and a coffee from a local mobile café. The remainder of the trip has a less dramatic coastline though Old Dunbar from the sea is spectacular. We had planned to enter the harbour though in the event electing to make straight for Belhaven Beach and pick up our pals from Thorntonloch.

So good to have finally made it over to this part of the east with enough interesting coast seen but not fully explored due to conditions to hopefully make another trip over in better weather.

HCC Trip Report

Seil Island

August 10^th & 11^th, 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Paddy Muir, Seb Layburn, Stephen Hearns.

Sat 10^th   F4 from west south west

Met at Arduaine at 1400. Due to strong winds discussed options of; a. just go, b. waiting for wind to decrease as forecast later or C. drive round to Balvicar. Decided on option a. but route modified to get as much shelter from Shuna as possible before striking north. After a couple of short stops and heading north from Shuna plus a dropping wind we enjoyed a lovely paddle up the sound to Tigh an Truish. The pub was hosting its annual music festival which we signed up for and enjoyed burgers and music. Continued through the Clachan Sound to our camp at Puilladobhrain. Hoping to catch some more of the music festival we walked over the hill back to Tigh an Truish. By the time of our arrival the live band had finished and the evening given over to the DJ. Had a couple of very enjoyable pints and returned to camp in the dark.  

Sunday 11^th   F1-2 from south west

The day emerged bright, sunny & cheerful, unlike I suspected, how a few of the party goers from last night would be feeling a few fields away at Tigh an Truish!

Seb made an heroic swim through the channel with Eilean Buidhe, and back into the bay to our west.

10:00 set off west then south-west down the east coast in perfect conditions. Met some other paddlers up from Ayrshire all of us grateful for this gap in the recent windy weather. Stopped at Easdale for a coffee and some refresher guidance for one of the group on paddling into and out of tidal streams. On down into the Cuan Sound and Kayakers Cove for some play in the stream and eddies.

Carried on down though the gap between Torsa and Luing before heading back to Arduain.

In just 24 hours; paddling in open water, narrow sounds and tidal streams, plus a music festival, and wild camp – marvellous.

Club Expedition Balnakeil to Brough

July 10^th – 19^th 2024

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stewart McCartney, Paddy Muir

This trip is a continuation from four earlier trips: Helensburgh / Oban May 2019, Oban / Arisaig Sept 2021, Ullapool / Arisaig Sept 2022 and Ullapool / Balnakeil 2023.

Put back from original planned date in early May due other commitments within the team.

Team of four. Three experienced and one new to multiday trips.

Period before dominated with several weeks of northerly winds.

Loose arrangement with Durness Bus Co to pick us up on 18^th / 19^th from as far as Wick.

Wed 10^th Helensburgh to Durness

We decided that using one vehicle and a local bus company with a trailer to pick us up would give the greatest flexibility and ease some of the burden of driving. It is a long way to the roof of Scotland but lots of chat, a couple of stops and we were soon putting up tents at Durness Campsite. Lots of rolling waves and white tops coming into the bay!

Thu 11^th Balnakeil to Eilean Hoan, 15km.

N F3-4, surf 3’

Our vehicle and trailer were safely left at the community hall and we set off from Balnakeil Bay into a smallish swell that increased substantially as we approached and rounded Faraid Head. Once clear of the headland and heading SW the swell eased and the paddling became drier. Not fancying surfing into Sango Bay we continued east to Eilean Hoan and the shelter of its southern shores. The island has an RSPB shelter which visitors are invited to use, this made an ideal setting for our evening cooking and dining.

Fri 12^th Eilean Hoan to Farr Bay, 35km

WNW F3, surf 3’

Crossed the mouth of Loch Eriboll and short stop SW of Whiten Head for slack water and the start of the E. going stream. Spectacular caves and arches along this coast. Useable landing spots though are rare along this section of coast until East Strathan where we stopped for a break at a sheltered small inlet W. of the beaches. Lunch on Eilean nan Ron. Though tempted by Neave Islands sheltered beaches we pressed onto Farr Bay. The bay is described as a ‘user friendly surfing beach’ – which it was going in on the SW corner. Camp and dinner made in the dunes above the beach we then headed for the very nice Betty Hill Hotel for a stretch of the legs and a couple of drinks.

Sat 13^th Farr Bay Neave Island

ENE F3, surf 3’-4’

The surf had been predicted to settle and even fall, but in the event had stepped up. Luckily, our position by the burn looked the calmest area of the beach. My timing on breaking out was not the best but at least the others could then rush out in slightly better conditions, even so, Stewart had his paddles and maps dislodged, Paddy was rolled but quickly rolled back up and Gordon got a black eye from a wave hitting his glasses. Beyond the breakers we regrouped caught our breath and after a quick look in the direction of Farr Point headed back W. to Neave Island and its sheltered S beaches. Afternoon spent exploring the island and considering options for the rest of the week against a forecast looking unsettled and winds stubbornly staying in the N.

Sun 14^th Neave Is. to Skullomie to Neave Is. 17km

ENE F3, surf 3’-4’

Decision made to not go E. for Farr Point and instead explore Skerray Bay and the coast W.and S. to Scullomie Harbour. Back at Neave Island for a second night and the hope that the late forecast of the wind backing to the NW might improve conditions for tomorrow. (The forecast for the E and W coasts was not favourable as alternative venues and even though our conditions were not ideal, they were, by virtue of us being between two separate weather systems better than other areas, so decided to press on E).

Mon 15^th Neave Is. To Port a’ Chinn (Armadale)  19km

NW F3, surf 2’-3’

Needing to renew water supplies we tried Torrisdale Bay and the Pier at Bettyhill but surf too large at the river bar. Continued round to Glaisgeo where we used a rocky inlet to wait for slack water at Farr Point. Several interesting caves and features explored on way to the point. Some swell at the point but more sheltered on E. side. Kirtomy Bay for lunch. We were approached by a retired professional photographer recording the old harbour and presumably thinking we were appropriate weather-beaten additions, he had us posing for several compositions with the promise we would get a copies. Afternoon continued round to Port a’ Chinn a surprisingly sheltered old fishing harbour just W. of Armadale Bay. An aerial cable from the station buildings to the harbour still exists. A steep climb up a track via the old fishing station gave us a tap and chance to renew water.

Tue 16^th  Port a’ Chinn (Armadale) to Fresgoe Harbour 28km

WNW F3, surf 2’-3’

Crossed Armadale Bay exploring caves and arches at Geodh’ Ruadh and Boursa Is. Stop for lunch in sheltered inlet W. of Totegan and waited for slack and start of E going stream off Strathy Pt. Potentially one of the most exposed headlands on our trip we were grateful for the decreased swell from what we experienced earlier on and rounded the point with no drama. A pleasant stop at Port Skerra W. of Melvich Bay and some restocking of treats from a little shop, even a whole change of diet for one of the team that had been living from dehydrated rations since starting and was craving real food. Crossed Melvich Bay to Sandside Harbour at Fresgoe and yet another sheltered surf free refuge with enough room on the grassy keyside for 4 tents. The harbour even has a toilet 800m away, but best of all avoids the sinister reputation of the beach that has warnings of radioactive particles being found.

The view E. from the harbour looks straight onto the nuclear facility of Dounreay which is currently being decommissioned.

Wed 17^th Fresgoe Harbour to Murkle Bay 34km

SW F2 and veering NW F3 in afternoon, surf 1’-2’

With the weather and swell settling nicely we continued E. past Dounreay with its lights and noises from decommissioning work, past what until now we had not seen much of – a low coastline with a backdrop of cultivated grassland. A lunch stop at Crosskirk and a walk up to St. Mary’s Chapel. After Crosskirk the coastline returns to cliffs, caves and arches. We rounded Brims Ness in lovely conditions and continued along as spectacular a section of coast  as any seen so far. Of greatest note is Clett Rock just prior to Holborn Head, the cliffs either side of the channel between the rock and the mainland creates an optical illusion of the water falling downhill from W to E. – Thurso’s own electric brae.

A stop in Thurso was made for ice creams and provisions, followed by a final 6km push round to Murkle Bay and a peaceful campsite in the dunes.   

Thu 18^th  Murkle Bay to Brough Pier 13km,  Far North Bus Co. to Durness

SSE F3-F2, surf 1’-2’

Our last paddling day with an appropriate finishing highlight of rounding the mainland’s most northerly point – Dunnet Head. The rounding was celebrated by paddy doing a roll and Stewart touching the headland.

Another old naturally sheltered harbour at Brough provided the ideal finishing point and access for our minibus and trailer.

Eight days paddling to get here and 2 &1/2 hrs to return. Nice seeing the coast from a different perspective but nothing like the experience we had on the water.

Friday 19^th Durness to Helensburgh & Dumbarton

Couple of stops on the way back and time to reflect on a great journey. The next part (2025) starts with the Merry Men of Mey and Duncansby Head after which it’s the east coast.

Summary

Total distance 162km  (140km going east and 22km waiting for conditions to improve)

Surf  & swell, too much at times but islands and old fishing harbours came to the rescue.

Thurso’s Electric Brae was a surprize to all.

What a remarkable paddle the north coast of Scotland is.

Durness Beach 10.7.24

West Of Faraid Head 11.7.24

Whiten Head 12.7.24

Farr Bay 13.7.24

Neave Island 14.7.24

Port a’ Chinn 15.7.24

Fresgoe Harbour 16.7.24

Strathy Point 16.7.24

Clett Rock 17.7.24

Dunnet Head 18.7.24

Participants: Steve W, Gordon, Norrie, Stephen, Damien, Seb , Chris, Jessica, Mike

The first sea trip of the year was popularly supported. A gap in a windy and wet period was greatly appreciated.
10:00 met at RNYC to organise club boats before setting out in light easterly F2. Short stop at Meiklecross Bay before crossing over to the RWSABC. Lunch on the beach and chat with a couple of paddlers just heading out. Much interest shown in a Seb’s sleek and fast Taran. Crossing back to Rosneath peninsular was a bit more bouncy as wind picked up from east to the top of F3.
A really quick and efficient deep-water rescue carried out S. of peninsular A couple of us tried some rolling back at the RNYC, one a perfect 1st timer and me on 4th attempt!

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stuart McCartney, Geoff Riddington, Mark Newal


This was the last planned sea trip of the year, the date swapped with our usual bothy trip, which was held in November.
Frosty but calm F2 from EEN, cloudy with intermittent sun.
Launched from the slipway beside the new swimming pool. Water flat and smooth, under 1.5 hrs to Newark Castle via Ardmore.
Lunch by the castle and walk around the building.
5km run along shoreline between Port Glasgow and Greenock. We were not sure if the Great Dock was navigable through the Western end (it is) so took the route outside the sea wall. The sea became increasingly choppy with the wind against tide which was surprising given the relatively benign conditions.
On making the Clyde crossing towards Rosneath Point the conditions eased and we were followed into Helensburgh by a very friendly and inquisitive seal, often coming up and nosing the back of our boats.
Just back intime for the last of the daylight and 20km covered.

Participants; Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Ian Walker, Stuart McCartney

This trip was planned for December last year, when poor forecasts had us heading for Mark Bothy instead. This year though the South of the UK was seeing storms we were enjoying a much quieter period under the centre of a large low-pressure system. Incredibly the wind kindly moved Northeast over the weekend giving gentle Easterlies on Saturday and Westerly to take us home on Sunday.

Saturday 4th Wind E, F2/3 Distance 12km.
Met at Ardruaine Jetty at 1030 and paddling just after 1100. Short stop at the bottom of Luing before nosing into Bagh Gleann a Mhaoil with the very start of the flood. Afternoon spent collecting wood from the beach and setting up in the bothy. Before darkness a short walk was made to a promontory above the caves South-West of the bothy.

Scarba bothy has a truly remarkable setting on a South facing slope looking out across the entrance to the Corryvrechan.

Sunday 5th Wind W, F1/2 Distance 26Km.
Early rise in the bothy at 0530 for paddling at 0700. Used the last of the flood to take us through the Corryvrechan along the South shore of Scarba. Conditions very good though with just a few swirly bits to make it interesting. Some reflected waves on the Western shore which might normally have allowed some close in shore paddling but given the length of exposed coast with few options to get out we continued at a safe distance. The Grey Dogs were passed through within the 1st hour of the Neap Ebb flow in ideal conditions.
A brief stop was made below Kilmory Lodge on the Eastern shore of Scarba before heading across the Sound of Luing and up the Eastern Shore of Luing for a lunch stop at the top of Shuna.
Back at Arduaine and all packed and way for mid-afternoon.
A super visit and stay at a remote bothy.

HCC Trip Report
Club Trip BBQ Finnart / Carrick Castle / Finnart, 13Km, Grade A
Sep 30th / Oct 1st 2023

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Stewart McCartney, Geoff Riddleton
Wind F2/3 from E & SW

This trip was organised as an option for those attending a BBQ at Carrick Farm Castle kindly run by club members Jai & Vonna for the HCC & villagers from Carrick Castle.
As with the earlier September club paddle the preceding week was very windy but fortunately quieter conditions occurred just in time for our journey.
The wet weather though did deter some from paddling and electing to drive.

Sat 30th 1630 departed from Finnart lay by amidst the divers on the sunken pier site. Easy paddle to Carrick Castle with a following wind.
Set up camp and enjoyed a lovely evening with curry and beer in the barn.

Sun 1st 0945 for paddle back to Finnart with again a favourable wind, this time from the South West – couldn’t have been better.

HCC Trip Report
Club Trip Firth of Forth, Grade A
September 23rd 2023

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Stewart McCartney, Colin Hosey.
Bright & sunny morning slightly overcast in the afternoon. Wind F2/3 from S and SW
This trip has turned out to be the Club’s only venture over to the East coast this year. Earlier plans for St. Abbs to N. Berwick were cancelled due to strong winds in July. The trip was just squeezed in between two windy periods.
The route is set out in Doug Cooper’s excellent book North & East Coasts of Scotland.

Starting beside the Forth Rail Bridge we paddled out via the battle-ship shaped island of Inch Garvie to Inchcolmn stopping for lunch and a walk round the Abbey (£7 visitors charge). On past Oxcars light and a second stop on Inchmickery – another island set up and disguised as a battle-ship.
The last island of the day Cramond was passed with the turning of the tide to the West and a home run skirting (or in my case not quite) the Drum Sands and back to Queensferry.

HCC Trip Report
Club Expedition Ullapool to Balnakeil
June 3rd – 11th 2023

Participants: Steve Wheaton, Gordon Smith, Ian Walker

This trip is a continuation from three earlier trips: Helensburgh / Oban May 2019, Oban / Arisaig Sept 2021, Ullapool / Arisaig Sept 2022.
Support for the trip looked good a month earlier with six people showing interest, as the date drew nearer that had dwindled to two which would not have met the club criteria for a minimum of three. Fortunately, Ian popped up at the last moment enabling a Club Trip.
The trip was graded as a ‘C’ due to tidal streams, likely conditions and lengths of exposed coastline without access to the shore.
There are three significant tidal areas on the route, the most exposed being Cape Wrath. Despite the forecast showing predominantly Northerly winds all week, the weaker tidal streams occurring at the end of the week suggested a S. to N. journey.

Sat 3rd Helensburgh to Ullapool (car)
Mid-day departure and arrival after a couple of stops in the early evening at the Heathfield Campsite. Drinks and food in town as it would be our own rations for the week.

Sun 4th Ullapool to Isle Ristol N F3, High Cloud / Sun, 31 Km
On the water for 10:00, large cruise ship coming into Ullapool. Stopped for morning break on the mainland beach NNW. of Isle Martin. Spotted a pair of sea eagles. Lunch stop on beach adjacent to Badenscallie burial ground. Crossed Southern end of Badentarbet Bay to Tanera More, Taneras Beg for short stop then onto Isle Ristol and beach on N. of the island to camp.

Mon 5th Isle Risol to Bay of Stoer N F2 am & F5 pm, Sunny, 25 Km
04:00 wake up to be on the water at 05:00 and the NE going stream around Rubha Na Coigeach. Tucked into sheltered area behind rock just short of the headland. Slack water gave gentle conditions around the headland. Crossed Enard Bay via A’Chleit and Soyea Islands. Pushed on up to Achmelvich’s Northerly beach – 4.5 hrs paddling, so really good to get out of the boats for a stretch. Spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon exploring the area and lounging on the beach. Such an idyllic setting and could easily have stayed but decided to continue on up to the Bay of Stoer to make easier what will be another very early start tomorrow. With wind in the N. the beach was an easy landing but any Westerlies would have the surf running. Good camping just above the beach.

Tue 6th Bay of Stoer to Handa Island N F2/3, Sunny, 41 Km
Another 04:00 rise for paddling at 05:00 and Point of Stoer at 07:00 with the start of the NE going stream. Stop on beach 1.75 Km S. of point and another on Oldany Island before crossing Eddrachillis Bay via Meall Mor and Ox Rock to Rubh’an Dobhrain. Had planned to camp but not a great location. 12:30 after lunch moved on up to Scourie to check out the camping eventually deciding on continuing up to Handa Island. A long day but rewarded with a superb site on a grassy terrace on the Southern bay. Fine views of the Old Man of Stoer in the SW. Swim, dinner and bed for 21:30.

Wed 7th Handa Island to Bagh Sheigra NE F3 am F4 pm, Sunny 20 Km
Walked the bird spotting trail around the West of the island. The breading season being in full swing we saw guillemots, puffins, shags, skuas, kittiwakes, terns and more. Clear skies gave us views of both the Point of Stoer and towards Cape Wrath. Apparently, a pod of Orcas had been spotted last night heading N. outside the island.

Back on the water for 11:30 to get the last of the NE. going stream in the Sound of Handa. Brief stop in a narrow bay before crossing the heads of Lochs Laxford and Dughaill. Quite choppy proceeding into the wind towards Kinlochbervie. Stop on beach behind Eilean a’ Chonnaidh before checking out the beaches at Oldshoremore, Beg and Droman. Finally settling for Bagh Sheigra and a fine elevated terrace on the East side of the bay for camping. Running low on water but a fortunate meeting with a couple of climbers and an offer to drive us up Blairmore to refill at a standpipe gave us supplies for the rest of the trip.

Thu 8th Bagh Sheigra to Sandwood Bay NE F/4, Sunny 8 Km
Forecast for F4s out of the N. so decided on a short day up to Sandwood Bay. Hugged the coast to avoid the wind most of the way. Bit of surf going into the bay. Set our tents up on the SW. corner of the bay below the cliffs. Lunch and out for a walk on the track to Blairmore then E. to Strathan Bothy. Chat with the keeper out making a list of jobs for a future working party. Back to the bay via Strath Shinary and the E. side of Sandwood Loch. Not back until 20:00 for dinner chat and bed.

Fri 9th Sandwood Bay NE F4/5, Sunny
Forecast again not suitable for Cape Wrath and absolutely no difficulty in deciding to spend the day around Sandwood Bay. Swim followed by a walk up to Bay of Keisgaig and freshwater showers under the magnificent waterfall. Picknick lunch and walk back to the campsite. Afternoon walk to Am Buachaille where from the clifftop we watched a couple of climbers reach the summit, abseil down and swim back to the mainland. Nervous checking of tomorrows forecast showed it was still holding good.

Sat 10th Sandwood Bay to Balnakeil NE F2, Sunny 30 Km
O7:30 on the water and a good run up by the cliffs and caves to the Cape for slack water at 09:30. Easily made 6+ Km/hr with the lift from the remains of the S. going steam that provides a N. going eddy close in. Perfect conditions at the top enabled us to go inside the rock and narrow channel off the point, then the arches east of the point. Another hour took us down to Kervaig for a break and a walk up to the immaculate Kearvaig bothy. Bit of surf even in these benign conditions and like Sandwood easy to see how different it would be in stronger winds or just a large swell running.
Final 12 Km in gentle airs down to Balnakeil. Porpoises in the bay to greet us. Campsite picked above beach below golf course.
Walked into Durness for a couple of drinks and dinner, plus a reflection on how lucky we were with the weather and what a superb week we all had.

Sun 11th Balnakeil to Helensburgh (taxi and car)
The Durness Bus Co. as promised called for us at 09:30 and within two hours via luxury minibus and trailer delivered us back to Ullapool and our car, the marine version of which we had just spent seven very enjoyable days on.

HCC Trip Report
Mark Bothy
December 3rd – 4th 2022


Participants; Steve Wheaton (Leader), Rem Fowler, Gordon Smith

Originally planned with two options final decision dependent on weather and participants – Scarba Bothy or Mark Bothy.

Late in the preceding week the wind forecast moved up to F3 / 4 from ENE which would have made the return journey from Scarba to Arduaine wet and slow. Mark Bothy was selected.

Saturday 3rd Wind F3 ESE
1230 Set off from Arrochar, followed West shore line via short exploration of old and partially dismantled torpedo testing station. Coffee stop at about 6Km and onto Mark 12Km. Bothy fire still showing embers from previous incumbents. Firewood cut, dinners made and an evening of chat and cards.

Sunday 4th Wind F2 / 3 ENE
0830 departed Mark Bothy for Helensburgh. Followed West shore to Ardentinny beach for short break in the sun. Tanker departed Coulport. Onto Gairletter Point and crossing to Knockderry Castle. Lunch at Kilcreggan before push into Easterly wind to Rosneath and crossing to Helensburgh Pier. 26Km.