Report: Ardlamont is notorious with sailors for cutting up rough in anything but a slight breeze. The forecast was for a Force4/5 westerly (18-21mph) but gusts were expected to be only 3 or 4 mph higher. The advice we had was to abandon or at least be prepared to abandon. However there are a number of escape points, even at the point itself, which mitigates any potential dangers and after due consideration we agreed to try it.
Launch Point at Portavadie
Probably the roughest section was immediately after the launch at a beach by the ferry slip at Portavadie. More than one of us thought this may be the place to get out. However we persisted and as we swung west and were pushed along by the strong wind at our backs, began to enjoy the trip, even if the following sea meant relaxing was impossible. In what seemed like a very short period (but was in fact over one and a half hours) we had covered 10km and were at our chosen lunch site Ardlamont Bay.
The view from Ardlamont beach (note the white horses)Lunch in comfort
David’s New Boat
During lunch we came to the conclusion that the sea at the Point itself would be only a little worse than that we had already experienced. We felt it was, contrary to our initial beliefs, going to be possible to safely kayak it. So it proved, despite a couple of big waves breaking over the boats.
Paddling towards TignabruichThe End: Kames
The paddle up the east side of the peninsular was uneventful if hard work. The wind coming through the hills provided keen opposition in places but we reached Kames in good time to meet Mrs C who ran us back over the hill to Portavadie to collect the car.
Conclusion:
Ardlamont is a key staging point on the Argyll Sea Kayaking Trail than runs from Dumbarton to Oban. An east west trip in a southerly or westerly Force 3 or above would be near impossible. If our wind had been any further south it would have equally been impossible for us to get round from the west. Users of the Trail should be warned.
Paddlers: M.M., Hugh and Geoff Weather: Very Mixed; Glorious Sunshine, Torrential Rain, Calm and Windy. Route: Description: The remote Ardnumurchan peninsular is the most westerly place on the British mainland and rounding the headland is something of a target for all sea kayakers. Like all sea kayaking the feasibility is totally wind dependent and our conditions were excellent with a light southerly breeze and sunshine. We started towards the mouth of Loch Sunart at an easy launch point after a second car had been moved up to the finishing point on the other side of the peninsular. One of the difficulties is finding both camp sites and launch points and, in retrospect, a longer 4 day trip from Salen round to Ardtoe and Loch Moidart might have been better. The weather was overcast and the cliff scenery excellent. Two Sea Eagles circled overhead.
Mingary Castle, which is found just before the village of Kilchoan, is the 13th century stronghold of the Clam McIain. It is owned by a Trust and is currently being restored with funds from the local landowner (Ardnumurchan Estates) and the National Lottery. When we arrived they had nearly completed scaffolding with scaffold poles and fittings made of stainless steel. When finished it will be a complete castle for let, presumably for historic weddings etc. Web sites (e.g. http://www.mingarycastletrust.co.uk/mingarycastletrust/) give lots more information.
We found a good campsite a km on with flat ground, a good supply of wood and no houses in the vicinity. During the evening the cloud lifted and although sea mist and fog was threatened none came over the camp site.
The Campsite looking towards CollMoon and Fire
Morning Mist from campsite
The mist that swirled around early on Thursday soon cleared and the sun soon illuminated the surrounds. A dominant feature of the trip was the high spring tide which generated very high highs and very low lows with a range of over 12 feet (4m). We originally intended to leave late to catch the north flowing tide but instead left early to ensure that we could float the boats from the beach, rather than carry them over slippy sharp rocks for 200m, In fact the south flowing tide had minimal impact relative to the southerly breeze that pushed us along a spectacular coastline towards the headland.
The cliffs were characterised by bands of rock, sometimes at right angles to each other
In a couple of hours we reached the headland and lighthouse.
The views were spectacular. Looking north Muck, Rhum and Eigg were in the foreground with the Cuillins of Skye and Knoydart as the background. To the far west the Outer Hebrides were just visible and in the south west stood Coll. On days like this, there is nowhere better scenically.
Boats marooned beneath lighthouse as tide dropped
After a long lunch break and exploration of the lighthouse and facilities we retrieved the boats from where they had been marooned by the rapidly dropping tide and paddled over to investigate Sanna Bay and identify potential camp sites.
Sanna Bay
By this time the tide was very low and any camp site would have required a carry of several hundred metres, so we went on to assess another potential site around the headland. In this case the sand beach was protected by a minefield of sharp rocks; OK at half tide and above but impossible at the current state. On again to another sand beach but on this occasion the rocks lay between the sand and the potential site. However there were some deep caves, known as the Glendrian Caves, to explore.
In the Glendrian Caves
After this interlude the hunt for a site was really on. On the map, about 1km on, a path was shown descending the cliffs and this was taken as a possible site. This proved correct although flat space was limited and firewood was non existent. However a fire was made using dried kelp and an enjoyable evening was had by all.
Late evening
During the night the wind got up and by morning was gusting at around 20mph. As we finished breaking camp the rain started and the short distance we had to travel became a blessing. In fact the rain was intermittent and the wind gusty and, because of the high cliffs, came from all different directions and none. The cliffs were broken and a number of caves both shallow and deep apparent. It is excellent sea kayaking terrain.
We arrived at Fascadale, our exit point, just after 10am in the pouring rain. Enthusiasm for continuing was limited and soon we set off back to the other car and then homewards.
Originally there were another 4 club members interested in the trip but for a variety of reasons they eventually could not make it. On the basis of our experience it is thoroughly recommended. It is a stunning and satisfying paddle worthy of the heather that marks a successful trip round Ardnurmurchan Point. Provided care is taken and the weather is OK it is suitable for paddlers of all abilities.
This was a hastily arranged afternoon trip in quiet weather to look at one of the giant liners now using Greenock. Depart about 2pm, arrive about 3, return via Fishery Protection Vessel Marina about 4.30pm. A good trip with some spectacular photos.
RYNC 11th: Paddlers Willie, Euan, Jamie, /, Adele, Geoff, Mike, Frankie. A good turnout on a lovely evening. A gentle paddle with canoes and sea kayaks, only spoilt by voracious midges as we put gear away.
Dumbarton-Craigendoran 18th: Paddlers: Euan, Geoff, Frankie. A glorious night. Entered Leven just after 7pmby steps on west side just beneath old bridge. Wonderful cruise down past castle (and climbers).Met by stiff SW breeze a good force 3, which rather slowed us down. Superb paddle in interesting and at times glorious scenery. Sunset just as we reached Ardmore. Incredibly photogenic but no camera! Landing at 10.30 still light.
Departure from Dumbarton
Craigendoran-Rosneath Point-Ardencaple-Craigendoran 19th. Paddlers: Geoff, Euan. A second chance to make use of the glorious weather, take some of the photos missed the previous night and have a night paddle. Quite surprisingly choppy, with boats wallowing in cross wind at the Point.
Leaving CraigendoranLooking up Gareloch with sun starting to dip beneath hills
As the swell and breeze built up, the original target of Kilkreggan for a drink was revised. A night paddle in rough seas did not seem too clever. So we turned midway across the bay past the point and headed back up the Gareloch. Just after the Point we were joined by a couple of seals, one of whom was extremely friendly, knocking the boat and playing around in front of us.
One very friendly seal
Heading back up the Loch reminded us yet again that Helensburgh is a fantastic place for kayaking.
Looking up Gareloch
A drink in the Ardencaple (recommended at high tide only otherwise it is a walk across a filthy, muddy beach) and night had come. Fortunately there was a brilliant moon, which looks like the sun on a December day in the photos.
A lovely paddle against a freshening wind brought us back into Craigendoran at 11.30. A superb night.
Saturday: The day started well with all paddlers at the Ganavan Beach, 2 miles north of Oban, before 10am. This is a excellent start point with a large shallow sandy beach and excellent parking (£2 per day).The weather was breezy mostly overcast but with occasional breaks. We had opted for Ganavan to make best use of tide and wind and so it proved. There was a big swell driven by a Force4 and it made for interesting paddling.
Departure at Ganavan
Our first stop was for the Lismore Broch. Brochs are large circular towers with a hollow wall. They are found only in Scotland and are thought to be around 2000 years old. The Lismore Broch is well worth a visit if only for the stunning views.
Douglas takes photos from the Broch
We pushed on northwards with the weather becoming more and more threatening. Around the point we decided to camp at the site just at the point. However when we arrived we found another group of 14 erecting tents. After some discussion we decided to push on and try and find an alternative. In retrospect it was a blessing for the next bay not only contained flat (tish) ground but a wood supply (albeit difficult to access) in the surrounding woodlands. As the evening got increasingly wet, the fire proved the highlight.
Around the fire in the rainThe campsite
Sunday: After a very wet evening the next morning dawned dry and bright. The view from the site was excellent with Glensanda prominent on the Morvern shore. As agreed we made an early start (8.10) to catch the south flowing tide aiming to reach the southernmost point at 12.30; slack water.
On the way from the site
The next stop was the spectacular Coefin Castle (ruins).
Coefin Castle
The group in the castle
The weather was constantly improving as we headed south. The headwind was dropping to negligible, the sun came out and dolphins/porpoise came to play. Seals looked on expectantly and an otter stopped and stared. The cliffs revealed caves and gashes; this was what one hoped for.
After a break for inspection of yet another castle (Adachurn) and lunch we headed on for the point. As we reached the point at peak low water, there were two linked questions; 1) can we get through behind the lighthouse island? 2) Do we want to if we can?. In the end we decided that round the light was more exciting and the gap probably does exist even at low tide.
David at Adachurn Castle
The final decision was whether to paddle the 9k directly back to Ganavan or travel up the coast and jump across the islands. The direct route was chosen and some 1.5 hours after setting off we reached the beach. Another excellent trip.
Report: We met at the car park just north of Cove. The initial crossing was to the pier at Blairmore. It is sad that there is no service to the pier after spending quite considerable sums to rejuvenate it. With the closure of the hotels at Carrick Castle and Ardentinny and no water service the future looks rather bleak for this part of Argyll and Bute.
Blairmore Pier
We then headed north, passing the “new” wreck, landing just past the caravan park at Ardentinny for a quick break.
Time for a break
The uneventful last leg was straight back across the loch to complete a 10 mile circuit.
Report: A good turnout on a dullish evening did the annual trip down the Leven. This year the flow was quite limited and in the lower reaches was completely negated by the incoming tide. As a consequence we took almost 2hr 30 mins. However there was enough water for an enjoyable experience and the rain held off.
Report: The weather forecast was not great with heavy rain and very strong winds on the Sunday. More than one person was expecting cancellation but, because of the relatively sheltered nature of the planned trip the decision was made to continue. Consequently the group gathered at 2pm and after the usual problems of beginners fitting their gear into boats, we set off for Inchconnachan for a wallaby hunt.
Fleet on the move
At the normal site the group split. Stewart, Geoff and Eleanor were lucky enough to spot one in the dense undergrowth, purely because it moved as we approached. There is one in the next photo.
Spot the Wallaby!
Despite the cloud cover it was dry and the views, as usual were fantastic
Down the loch from the Inchconnachan beachStuart and Rachel
The weather stayed dry as we rounded InchConnachan and headed for our camp site on Inchvannach.
On arrival tents were pitched, barbeques lit and a fire built and lit. Nat and Robin erected their Gazebo which proved very popular when the rain arrived. Stewart and Geoff, meanwhile, erected a conical shelter over the fire.
After food Geoff, Stewart and Eleanor had a short trip to pick up Hannah. During this trip it began to rain very heavily and continued off and on throughout the evening and night. Despite the wet and because it was becoming horribly midgy, most went out for an evening paddle getting back just as the light started to fail at 10.30. A late swim was undertaken by some. All had retreated to their tents by midnight.
The Sunday morning was bright and quite dry but blustery. We cooked breakfast and were off soon after 10am
Departure from site
The paddle up through the narrows was fine but we exited straight into a north westerly wind blowing around force 4, occasionally gusting much higher. It was an important lesson that kayaking can be a challenge and that the Loch can be a very dangerous and unforgiving place. However all coped well (if slowly).
Because the wind was expected to increase during the day we had arranged to finish at 11am and duly got to Ardlochlay at 11.10. An excellent weekend.
Thursday 13th June: The Beginners will be at Luss in the canoes. I am hoping to go for a paddle but because of trailer limitations only have room for a couple of the club sea kayaks so if you would like to come and need gear you will probably need to find some transport. If you can take an extra boat please let me know ASAP.
Friday 14th: During the day and evening we are supporting a charity relay team swimming 35km (the equivalent of the length of Loch Lomond) on Loch Lomond. It now appears we will be based at either Inverbeg or Luss. If you have the time off and are interested in a paddle let me know and I can suggest times and locations to join us.
Thursday 20th: The Beginners are going down the Leven from Balloch to Dumbarton. If interested let me know so I can arrange gear.
Sat/Sunday 22nd/23rd: Beginners Canoe Camp. Leaving Aldlochlay at 2pm, returning 12 noon on the Sunday. More details (how and what to pack etc) at the pool session the previous Tuesday.
Weekend 6th/7th July: Round Lismore. Depart Helensburgh 8am, returning about 4pm. This is graded as B i.e. you should have done some longish day trips but not necessarily camped from the kayak before. Please let me know if you are thinking of coming.
Pool: From 25th June on the pool will be open access with a concentration on rolling. Cost £3 per evening as usual.
Gear: You can borrow gear from the club if it is not required for club outings. We charge a nominal £5 per seat per day provided it is returned as it was issued.
We left Ard Asaig, a couple of miles west of Tarbet, at about 11.30 having caught the morning boat from Uig and over-nighted in a camp site by the ferry port at Uig. The weather was as forecast, cold and windy with the cloud almost down to the loch. The initial paddle to the lunch break on Isay was quite tough but after lunch we hit the main swell and force 5 winds. Just as we were contemplating retreat we spotted a rock beach and landed, hoping for the weather to ease. It did not and a tent was pitched for shelter. A shelter wall, firewood and a fire followed and by the time the wind eased (7pm) we had given up any idea of further progress.
The hills of Harris close to our departure pointThe rock beachCamp Site
Sunday morning was overcast and breezy but the crossing to Taransay appeared on. After a difficult launch as we made our way out between a wave break and the shore a large otter appeared, stared and disappeared.
Taransay was featured in the BBC series Castaway in which 30 people were landed on a deserted island for a year. The identified objective was to observe the development of a community. The island is large, relatively fertile and has some beautiful sand beaches. Sheep are grazed over the whole island and there are a couple of summer holiday houses. All round it appears to be a very pleasant place.
Heading for Taransay
TaransayTaransay Beach
Objective achieved we crossed to another lovely surf beach for lunch (nice bouncy entry and exit) and then back via Isay to the car for part 2 of the trip.
Day 3/4/5 Loch Roag
Wild camping from the car was surprisingly difficult, but, after an hour driving around and a trip to Callanish Stone Circle we found a lovely picnic site above a wonderful surf beach just north of Carloway.
Callanish
Evening at Dail Mor picnic site
The camp site
Our launch site was back towards Callanish. From here we headed out for a circuit of Great Bernera.
Noticeable features of this area were the population of Great Bernera (apparently “cleared” from the mainland in the 1870s), the extensive fish and mussel farms and the stunning sand beaches. Possibly the best of them was our lunch stop on Little Bernera.
Heading for Little Bernera BeachThe Beach
Bernera Beach
After lunch we rounded the headland and into the sizeable Atlantic Swell. From there we headed to the channel between Great and Little Bernera before landing on yet another golden beach. The main interest at this beach was an Iron Age village which had lain undiscovered under a layer of sand until recently. A feature is a reconstructed house which, unfortunately was closed.
Iron Age House
After some debate a rock beach on the island of Floddaigh suggested a possible place for the night. As we left we were drawn towards a basking shrk that had apparently been in the area all afternoon. We were lucky enough to get a close inspection of the fish whose length was around 20ft.
Basking Shark
Floddaigh was the nesting place for thousands of sea birds and care had to be taken not to tread on nests and newly born chicks. There was however a mass of wood, flat ground and a stunning sunset.
Fire and Cooking on FloddaighSunset
The clear sky of the previous evening augured well for Tuesday. The first objective was the famous (among keen sea kayakers) Pabbaigh Mor. As we approached a dolphin/porpoise decided to play in front of us.
The island proved to live up to its reputation. The first feature is a large sea cave but this was of minor interest compared to the stunning natural arch.
The photos were taken at a quiet period. In fact the big swell at times generated a very exciting experience! We next sought out the entrance of the lagoon but after entering what looked like the entrance we decided the tide was probably too low so we opted for the south entrance. En route was a “gap” , confused and treacherous in the big swell. After a long period of contemplation sense won over challenge and we went round outside and then into the lagoon.
After the tumult outside the lagoon was amazing, with three lovely sand beaches and completely quiet water. It also had a wide north entrance that we had missed.
A beach in the lagoon between Pabbaigh Mor and Beag
We then decided to investigate the sand beach just 3km away at Camas Cliobh. This beach was totally open to the Atlantic so we expected some surf, but it appeared from the sea to be relatively small and canoeable. This was not the case. All of us were turned and Geoff ended up on the sand upside down.
Hugh rides the surf (detail)
Jamie views the surf
We then spent the next 30 minutes trying to work out how best to get out. The shape, frequency and power of the surf and the resulting shape of the beach made exit problematic. Just as the kayak floated it was hit by a wave, turned, filled with water and beached. What was required was a young flexible paddler who could get into the kayak after the initial wave break. Our hero was Jamie who towed the old men past the first break to allow them to escape and then managed to get his boat clear” and use the keyhole cockpit to get in. Once past the surf line his kayak was pumped out and we were all clear.
After the excitement we paddled on the the township of Bhaltos which offered a telephone box and campsite in the way of services and two more glorious sand beaches.
Hugh and Jamie on boat at Bhaltos
The ideal campsite has a sand beach, flat turf immediately adjacent, good views and a wood supply. Unfortunately the first and last are very rare and we put the fire as a higher priority than soft entry and exit. So we choose the island of Fuaigh Beag for our final camp., a very satisfactory choice.
Campsite at FuaighView from Fuaigh Mor
The final morning was a quick paddle across the east side of Great Bernera under the bridge. and we reached the launch site at around 11pm. Sadly we found a side window had been smashed, possibly by a stone from the road. We suspect the police do not really believe this either but, in any case, they were extremely helpful and found us an autoglass agent who immediately fitted a temporary window for th long journey home. If it was deliberate the locals in Stornoway certainly tried to make up for the sins of their brethren and we safely caught the 4pm ferry from Tarbet. It was a beautiful crossing.
TarbetThe Paddlers
With wonderful weather the route back must be the most glorious drive in the UK. crossing/passing five wonderful mountain ranges; The Harris Hills, The Cuillins, Glen Shiel, Ben Nevis and the Grey Corries and finally Glencoe. IT was a fitting end to an excellent trip.
Weather: Very, very windy on Saturday. Sea Fog on Sunday.
Innes, Jamie, Geoff and David at Clachan Bridge (“Over the Atlantic”)The route
Ready for Departure
Report: The forecast was perfect; Northerly force 4 to 5 to blow us down on the south flowing tide to the Garvellachs followed by a strong to gale force wind with rain when we were safely tucked up in bed. On Sunday a calm sea with a strong north flowing tide to take us back to Easdale. However nobody told Boreas and when we arrived at Easdale it was blowing 6 to 7 possibly 8. A strategic withdrawal was the only option and the new plan involved a sheltered trip down Seil Sound and then, with the wind forecast to strengthen (!), a paddle along Loch Melfort looking for the perfect sheltered camp site. And that is what we did
The Campsite on Loch Melfort
Looking west from the campsite
A superb camp fire
Depart Day 2
The site was almost perfect being flat, well sheltered and with an excellent wood supply. An excellent evening was had until the rain started at about 11.
Before turning in we had hatched a cunning plan to start early to catch the tide at Cuan Sound and at Belnahua and so at 5am we were up and by 6.15, having breakfasted we were afloat. The wind had completely disappeared and was replaced by a thick wet sea fog. The calm and quiet was ethereal.
Approaching Cuan
The passage behind Torsa was deep and flowing and the tide shifted us on at 3 knots plus our own speed through Cuan Sound and out into the Sound of Luing. By keeping close into shore we were able to easily paddle in the eddy caused by the Cuan outfall down to Cullipool.
Through Cuan Sound
Breakfast at Cullipool
Visibility varied from poor to none and we were worried about missing Belnahua as we got into the strong tides, so we decided to head south behind the skerries and then follow the islands out NE. As we got towards Fladda we were all suprised at the size of the flow and the multiple directions as it past Fladda
Tidal flows near Fladda
Belnahua is one of the two Slate Islands. It was quarried until the First World War when demand and cost associated with continuous pumping to keep the pits dry from rampaging storms led to its evacuation. The legacy of ruined buildings, flooded quarries and slate waste combined with the mist provided an eery spectacle
Belnahua
Getting the Bearing
From Belnahua we headed by compass course set to get close to land as quickly as possible but avoiding the tumble of water from Cuan Sound. As soon as we got visibility we turned and headed for Easdale, the second of the Slate Islands. Unlike Belnahua, Easdale Island has a thriving economy with a pub/restaurant, museum and village hall. On Easdale we met Andy Warrender who last year circumnavigated Tasmania and this year is attempting the crossing to Norway. He had offered us a lift to Clachan but advised paddling it round the west and north sides; advice that was taken.
As it turned out this was some of the best kayaking of the weekend with a substantial swell and superb cliff scenery with arches, caves and little inlets.
Jamie admires the cliff scenery
The time from Easdale back to Clachan was expected to be 1.5 hrs but we managed it in 70 minutes without any hurry.
By 4.00 we were packed up and in the pub for a well deserved drink after a super weekend.