Helensburgh CC

Paddlers: Geoff, Hugh and Jamie

Day1/2. Taransay

We left Ard Asaig, a couple of miles west of Tarbet, at about 11.30 having caught the morning boat from Uig and over-nighted in a camp site by the ferry port at Uig. The weather was as forecast, cold and windy with the cloud almost down to the loch. The initial paddle to the lunch break on Isay was quite tough but after lunch we hit the main swell and force 5 winds. Just as we were contemplating retreat we spotted a rock beach and landed, hoping for the weather to ease. It did not and a tent was pitched for shelter. A shelter wall, firewood and a fire followed and by the time the wind eased (7pm) we had given up any idea of further progress.

Sunday morning was overcast and breezy but the crossing to Taransay appeared on. After a difficult launch as we made our way out between a wave break and the shore a large otter appeared, stared and disappeared.

Taransay was featured in the BBC series Castaway in which 30 people were landed on a deserted island for a year. The identified objective was to observe the development of a community.  The island is large, relatively fertile and has some beautiful sand beaches. Sheep are grazed over the whole island and there are a couple of summer holiday houses. All round it appears to be a very pleasant place.

Objective achieved we crossed to another lovely surf beach for lunch (nice bouncy entry and exit) and then back via Isay to the car for part 2 of the trip.

Day 3/4/5 Loch Roag 

Wild camping from the car was surprisingly difficult, but, after an hour driving around and a trip to Callanish Stone Circle  we found a lovely picnic site above a wonderful surf beach just north of Carloway.

Our launch site was back towards Callanish. From here we headed out for a circuit of Great Bernera.

Noticeable features of this area were the population of Great Bernera (apparently “cleared”  from the mainland in the 1870s), the extensive fish and mussel farms and the stunning sand beaches. Possibly the best of them was our lunch stop on Little Bernera.

After lunch we rounded the headland and into the sizeable Atlantic Swell. From there we headed to the channel between Great and Little Bernera before landing on yet another golden beach. The main interest at this beach was an Iron Age village which had lain undiscovered under a layer of sand until recently. A feature is a reconstructed house which, unfortunately was closed.

Iron Age House

 After some debate a rock beach on the island of Floddaigh suggested a possible place for the night. As we left we were drawn towards a basking shrk that had apparently been in the area all afternoon. We were lucky enough to get a close inspection of the fish whose length was around 20ft.

Floddaigh was the nesting place for thousands of sea birds and care had to be taken not to tread on nests and newly born chicks. There was however a mass of wood, flat ground and a stunning sunset.

The clear sky of the previous evening augured well for Tuesday. The first objective was the famous (among  keen sea kayakers) Pabbaigh Mor. As we approached a dolphin/porpoise decided to play in front of us.

The island proved to live up to its reputation. The first feature is a large sea cave but this was of minor interest compared to the stunning natural arch.

The photos were taken at a quiet period. In fact the big swell at times generated a very exciting experience! We next sought out the entrance of the lagoon but after entering what looked like the entrance we decided the tide was probably too low so we opted for the south entrance. En route was a “gap” , confused and treacherous in the big swell. After a long period of contemplation sense won over challenge and we went round outside and then into the lagoon.

After the tumult outside the lagoon was amazing, with three lovely sand beaches and completely quiet water. It  also had a wide north entrance that we had missed.

We then decided to investigate the sand beach just 3km away at Camas Cliobh. This beach was totally open to the Atlantic so we expected some surf, but it appeared from the sea to be relatively small and canoeable. This was not the case. All of us were turned and Geoff ended up on the sand upside down.

We then spent the next 30 minutes trying to work out how best to get out. The shape, frequency and power of the surf and the resulting shape of the beach made exit problematic. Just as the kayak floated  it was hit by a wave, turned, filled with water and beached. What was required was a young flexible paddler who could get into the kayak after the initial wave break. Our hero was Jamie who towed the old men past the first break to allow them to escape and then managed to get his boat clear” and use the keyhole cockpit to get in. Once past the surf line his kayak was  pumped out and we were all clear.

After the excitement we paddled on the the township of Bhaltos which offered a telephone box and campsite in the way of services and two more glorious sand beaches.

The ideal campsite has a sand beach, flat turf immediately adjacent, good views and a wood supply. Unfortunately the first and last are very rare and we put the fire as a higher priority than soft entry and exit. So we choose the island of Fuaigh Beag for our final camp., a very satisfactory choice.

The final morning was a quick paddle across the east side of Great Bernera under the bridge. and we reached the launch site at around 11pm. Sadly we found a side window had been smashed, possibly by a stone from the road. We suspect the police do not really believe this either but, in any case, they were extremely helpful and found us an autoglass agent who immediately fitted a temporary window for th long journey home. If it was deliberate the locals in Stornoway certainly tried to make up for the sins of their brethren and we safely caught the 4pm ferry from Tarbet. It was a beautiful crossing.

With wonderful weather the route back must be the most glorious drive in the UK. crossing/passing  five wonderful mountain ranges; The Harris Hills, The Cuillins,  Glen Shiel, Ben Nevis and the Grey Corries and finally Glencoe. IT was a fitting end to an excellent trip.

Paddlers: Jamie, David, Innes and Geoff

Weather: Very, very windy on Saturday. Sea Fog on Sunday.

Report: The forecast was perfect; Northerly force 4 to 5 to blow us down on the south flowing tide to the Garvellachs followed by a strong to gale force wind with rain when we were safely tucked up in bed. On Sunday a calm sea with a strong north flowing tide to take us back to Easdale. However nobody told Boreas and when we arrived at Easdale it was blowing 6 to 7 possibly 8.  A strategic withdrawal was the only option and the new plan involved a sheltered trip down Seil Sound and then, with the wind forecast to strengthen (!), a paddle along Loch Melfort looking for the perfect sheltered camp site. And that is what we did

The site was almost perfect being flat, well sheltered and with an excellent wood supply. An excellent evening was had until the rain started at about 11.

Before turning in we had hatched a cunning plan to start early to catch the tide at Cuan Sound and at Belnahua and so at 5am we were up and by 6.15, having breakfasted we were afloat. The wind had completely disappeared and was replaced by a thick wet sea fog. The calm and quiet was ethereal.

Approaching Cuan

The passage behind Torsa was deep and flowing and the tide shifted us on at 3 knots plus our own speed through Cuan Sound and out into the Sound of Luing. By keeping close into shore we were able to easily paddle in the eddy caused by the Cuan outfall down to Cullipool.

Visibility varied from poor to none and we were worried about missing Belnahua as we got into the strong tides, so we decided to head south behind the skerries and then follow the islands out NE. As we got towards Fladda we were all suprised at the size of the flow and the multiple directions as it past Fladda

Belnahua is one of the two Slate Islands. It was quarried until the First World War when demand and cost associated with continuous pumping to keep the pits dry from rampaging storms led to its evacuation. The legacy of ruined buildings, flooded quarries and slate waste combined with the mist provided an eery spectacle

From Belnahua we headed by compass course set to get close to land as quickly as possible but avoiding the tumble of water from Cuan Sound. As soon as we got visibility we turned and headed for Easdale, the second of the Slate Islands. Unlike Belnahua, Easdale Island has a thriving economy with a pub/restaurant, museum and village hall.  On Easdale we met Andy Warrender who last year circumnavigated Tasmania and this year is attempting the crossing to Norway. He had offered us a lift to Clachan but advised paddling it round the west and north sides; advice that was taken.

As it turned out this was some of the best kayaking of the weekend with a substantial swell and superb cliff scenery with arches, caves and little inlets.

The time from Easdale back to Clachan was expected to be 1.5 hrs but we managed it in 70 minutes without any hurry.

By 4.00 we were packed up and in the pub for a well deserved drink after a super weekend.

Distances: Saturday 12km.  Sunday 31km

Paddlers:

Route:

Weather:

Overcast with occasional breaks in the cloud for weak sunshine. Cool to Cold. Calm or very light wind from NW. Overnight (from about 6pm to 10am ) there was a wet cloudy mist  that made a dark night even blacker.

Report:

A clear drive from Helensburgh saw us at Morar in about 3 hours. Easy parking just up side road from Morar and an easy beach launch.

The scenery was superb with wooded islands at the west end and huge steep fiord like mountains at the East.

At Swordland we investigated the popular portage across to Loch Nevis. The surface is OK for large wheeled carriers but it is very steep. Not to be taken lightly.

From there we ventured on to the far end of the loch and the MBA bothy which, for some unknown reason, is named Oban.

As bothies go this was in the excellent category, dry with a good fire and a wood store. For the next hour or so the woodstore was filled and then the fire lit against the cold and damp now enveloping the bothy.

There then followed a good meal, a few drams and some stories. It is worth noting the remoteness of the bothy. The nearest habitation is Tarbet with a population of 4 and no road to anywhere. The nearest road was our starting point 12 miles away without a path. Indeed there were no established through paths in any direction.  We estimate that we were the only people for around 200 square miles.

At 10 pm it was off to bed.

The morning broke misty and wet but gradually dried and brightened up. By the time we left, just after 10am conditions were excellent with a flat calm instead of the expected breeze.

A gentle paddle brought us to some lovely sand beaches at Camas Luinge. Indeed there were good beaches and camping spots right along the loch. After a coffee break  we continued on to  Lettermorar. The croft here seems to have been deserted about 20 years ago. Sadly it appears that the whole loch community including Kinlochmorar and Swordland has gradually disappeared over the last 50 years leaving only the Bothy and a couple of summer cottages.

From here we paddled on to the islands where we stopped for lunch.

A final paddle back to our launch point saw us at the cars by 03.30pm, away by 4pm and home at 7pm (unless you stopped for the excellent fish and chips at the Real Food Cafe at Tyndrum).

Total miles covered in the weekend was 24. Overall this proved to be a perfect winter trip up an unexpectedly beautiful loch. Recommended.

Paddlers:  Hugh, Ken, Geoff and Liz

Location

The Datca peninsula is in South West Turkey and projects westward from the Marmaris area for about 80 miles. The peninsula is wild and beautiful and exposed to the dominant wind system of the Aegean known as the Etesian or Meltemi wind. This runs from the West every afternoon at between force 3 and 5  and any progress into it is extremely slow.

Our route took us from the village of Akyaka at the top of the Gulf of Gokova, west along the north coast of the peninsula, round the point at the ancient ruined city of Knidos and back eastward to Datca.

Because  of the wind we had to stop most days in the early afternoon, which in turn led to early morning departures. The total route length was 174km, 108 miles.

Weather

We had it hot and sunny except for the last morning which was overcast. The wind, however, kept us cool when paddling and the nights, although hot by UK standards, were tolerable.

Day 1

A slight mistake by one of our party who picked up the wrong bag, and a rather excellent fish sandwich and beer  lunch delayed departure by a couple of hours. This led to our first experience of the Meltemi wind and the battle to make progress westward in the afternoon. We eventually found a pleasant camp site just as the light was failing for our first night.

Distance Covered  6.5km 4mi

Day 2

To counter the lack of progress we agreed on a 7.30am departure. At the time we did not realise that dawn was at 7.15 and breakfast would be in the dark. However all went well and we were out on a flat calm sea by 7.25. 

Our first stop was Sedir Island, the site of the ancient ruined city of Cedrae. This was the location of the summer palace of the Kings of Caria and contains the impressive ruins of an outdoor theatre dating around 200 BC. There is also a beautiful golden yellow limestone beach which tradition states was a gift to Cleopatra from Mark Antony.

A 90 min break for culture and coffee put back the schedule and by 12.00 the Meltemi had begun. By 2.30 we were seeking shelter. There was a short interlude for diving to recover a dropped flask perfectly visible at a depth of 10m and then on to Ali’s Bar for a relaxing afternoon and evening.

Distance Covered 25.4km 15.8mi

Day 3

Another early start with dawn just breaking. Flat calm, a heat haze and utter beauty. A long, sunny day with the breeze gradually increasing. Some long stretches of open water as we cut from headland to headland to try to get back on schedule. Finally, as the wind became just too strong for pleasure a lovely camp site under an olive tree, an excellent fire and another bottle of wine.

Distance Covered 32.2km 20mi

Day 4 

Another glorious day. Initial calm and haze becoming hot and windy. Lovely scenery and empty beaches. Conscious of a poor forecast (high wind) later in the week  (which could prevent us rounding the peninsula) we pushed on. The sea was notably rough in final section past the terminal of the Datca-Bodrum ferry. This was rather like some of the terminals in Scotland with nothing there except the admin buildings – and, of course, the sun.

With little progress because of the wind we found a surprisingly good site a few metres up a small cliff with masses of drift wood for another excellent fire.

Distance Covered 33.7km 20.9mi

Day 5

A pre-dawn start with Liz and Geoff on the water at 7.15.

As we progressed west the cliff scenery became more rugged and beaches less frequent. 

At our mid morning break we were joined by a fisherman picking herbs who showed us a set of steps cut in the rock dated around 500BC, not unusual in this part of the world.

We pushed on, anxious to round the critical Knidos headland before the afternoon wind. We stopped for a quick lunch in a small cave and then on.

The headland itself was extremely lumpy with water apparently coming from all directions. Luckily the wind was still relatively light and the boats extremely stable but rescue practice in rough water is definitely a need!

By 2.30 we were in the cafe at Knidos having a well earned beer. Knidos is an extremely important site of an ancient Hellenic City. The area is covered with the ruins of the city which reached its zenith in around 400BC. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knidos gives details.

After three expensive beers each for the guys and a sightseeing tour by Liz we finally determined there was no resting place at the city and set out in high spirits and a very brisk cross wind. A very bouncy half hour brought us to our fifth camp site; the beach.

Distance 33.5km, 20.8mi

Day 6

With the pressure off, the next two days were much more relaxed. The scenery however remained quite spectacular with a couple of huge sea caves.

The camp site was probably the best of the whole trip being the restaurant garden, grass and adjacent toilets/shower. As with all such sites it came free with the meal.

Distance Covered 21.9km 12.9mi

Day 7

A phone call with Dean elicited the information that Day 7 was to be a “bad” day with rain and high winds. As a result there was just a little pressure to round the final headland before the wind struck. As it turned out the wind never exceeded force 4 and the rain never appeared, although the morning was overcast and threatening.

The highlights of the final day was another huge sea cave, one of the worst lunch spots and the final beers in Datca.

 After meeting, washing, changing and loading we were on our way for the 3.5hr journey to the airport, broken by an excellent and cheap meal. Then after the statutory airport delays we were set for the 4.5hr journey back to Glasgow and home by 3.30am. An excellent trip.

Further Information

We flew Glasgow to Dalaman with Thomas Cook. We found, last year, that the cheapest way is to purchase a self catering package as  a) this is cheaper than the flight only b) provides a first night accommodation and c) provides transfer on arrival. We did not use 6 nights accommodation and the return transfer. Cost with parking at the airport came to around £380 each.

Kayak Equipment and transfer to/from the start/end points was provided by Dean Livesey of Seven Capes www.sevencapes.com. Canoe Equipment (Wilderness Sea Kayaks) is £20 per day. With transfers we paid £205 each.

We took lightweight camping gear and food for the whole trip. At the start we purchased some bread and fruit and 14 litres of water each. There were no shops en route.

Total cost £755 including purchased food and drinks for lunches, coffee/beer, 1 restaurant lunch and 3 restaurant dinners.