Loch Lomond Sunday 3rd October

loch lomond nov 13 006Paddlers: Morag, Ian, Mark T, Lee, David H, Mark C, David N, Mel, Geoff, Douglas, Michael, Oliver, Keith, Ross

Weather: Sunny with very blustery showers.

Report: After a terrible week of weather, Sunday promised relief if a bit windy for the Basic Skills paddle. On the Sunday morning the wind appeared to be Force 4 from the NW, not really normally suitable for beginners. The shelter at Aldlochlay suggested, however, that we should be able to do something if only creep along the shore. As it turned out the hills and islands sheltered us almost completely with only one or two points exposed to the wind. The crossings to/from Inchvannach were, for example, very quiet whilst the exit north from the narrows was anything but.

The route started south past the “little boy” statue. The autumn colours were glorious.

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With relative calm we crossed to Inchvannach and then on to Inchmoan.

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The beach to the north was flooded so we headed back to the main beach for a break. Then on up north through the narrows to a beach at the top of Inchvannach.

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After a lunch break we  set off again just as the strongest of the blustery showers hit us. It was so fierce we simply sat off the beach until it eased and then pushed on into the waves and wind. All made it to the next beach, some having far less trouble than others, the canoeists suffering most in the high wind.  As the cloud cleared we were treated to a glorious rainbow

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A second calm crossing and we were back by 2pm. Another excellent day on Loch Lomond.

Training, Trips and Events, late Autumn 2013

1. The Basic Skills course finishes in the Pool on Tuesday November 5th.

2. The third outdoor session of the course will be a paddle round the Islands of Loch Lomond on Sunday 3rd November, meeting at the lay-by at Aldlochlay at 10am. We should finish about 2pm so bring something to eat and drink. Everybody in the club is welcome. Please could you confirm you are coming and the equipment you need.
3. A reminder that The Paddle Show is on in Perth on 25th/26th October. It is thoroughly recommended.
4. The Sea Expedition course starts on Tuesday Nov 12th at the Pool.  It is in two parts. The first 5 weeks (until Xmas) primarily concerns Safety and Rescue at sea. Initially we concentrate on group rescues and then progress to self rescue with floats and rolling.  There will be a sea paddle in November or early December and the cost for this section is £20. The second half of the course looks at Planning and Navigation (and how to ensure you do not need those safety techniques) and will take place on Thursday evenings in the New Year. One session will also look in detail at what to take in the way of camping and clothing equipment.  Participants are also invited to continue to develop their rescue and rolling skills in the Pool on Tuesday nights along with other club members.
5. There will be a talk on Thursday 21st November at 7.30 in the Scout Hall, John St on the Argyll Kayak Trail by Russell Davies the Project Officer. The trail runs to Oban via Helensburgh, Kyles of Bute and the Crinan Canal and involves various projects, such as pontoons and trolleys on the Crinan Canal, to make life a bit easier. Everybody is welcome.

Turkey October 2013

Paddlers:   Geoff, Hugh & Ken

Weather: Fine but quite windy

Location: This was the fourth trip to SW Turkey based in the general Dalaman Area. As might be expected this was the furthest from the airport and the base of our provider in Fethiye.

Location of current and previous trips
Location of current and previous trips

To cover the best marine scenery the trip was in two, three day sections with a vehicle transfer between. It could be done as a single trip with a 25nm slog along an uninteresting coastline but the loss of the first day due to wind, ruled that out.

Part A: Kas to Sulkulu Beach, near Demre.

We arrived in Turkey just before 10pm and were transported, with kayaks and equipment to the holiday resort of Kas and our overnight Pension. The accommodation was chosen because it apparently had direct access to the sea from their “Beach”. In fact the beach constituted of small concrete sunbathing platforms with a set of steps for entry/exiting the sea. There was no alternative; kayaks are not allowed to use the slip in the little harbour in the centre of town even if we could have got the kayaks there.

A large storm had hit the area over the previous three days generating a large swell. In addition the wind forecast for the first day threatened Force 7 winds . Kayaking was obviously impossible so we spent the day wandering in the town and doing touristy things like visiting a water cistern dated around 600BC and the Roman Ampitheatre seating 12,000.

Kas
Kas
Water Cistern (Storage) dated 600BC
Water Cistern (Storage) dated 600BC

After a pleasant if frustrating day, the Friday opened slightly overcast but with much lighter winds. We loaded the kayaks and manipulated them down the platforms to the water edge. By strategically locating one paddler (Geoff) in the sea we managed to lower the boat into the swell whereupon it landed on a jaggedy rock. When kicked off the rock it decided that upside down was more stable. It was righted half full of water and the paddler (Geoff) got in and started pumping, whereupon the pump came apart. Apparently two hands were required for the pump leaving none for the paddle or simply hanging on.  The second kayak was lowered for support and using this it was just possible to pump enough out to stop the first kayak from sinking. The third kayak was lowered and the other two paddlers got in. After more frantic paddling spray decks were fitted and we were away.  Clear of the shore there was further pumping and then we were truly away on the following route.

Route for the first three days
Route for the first three days

The coastal scenery in this part of Turkey is superb. Broken limestone cliffs are peppered with deep sea caves and the water is a perfectly clear turquoise blue. The sun was shining and the brisk breeze and 4ft swell added interest.

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The Greek Island of Meis is in the background
Trough a wet lens on a choppy sea
Through a wet lens on a choppy sea

 

Cave Exploration
Cave Exploration

Landing places were very rare. The lunch break was typical of unfinished tourist based schemes that litter the coastline.

Lunch Stop
Lunch Stop

Our destination for the evening was the ancient city of Apelie. A typically amazing ruin, the city was founded in the Lycian era (c 600BC) and became very rich on the basis of a shellfish that provide the dye for the imperial purple of the Roman Emperors. The area includes huge city walls, mausoleums and a sunken harbour; uninvestigated and likely to remain so.

Apelie
Apelie
Inside the City
Inside the City

We camped, without charge, in the campsite known as The Purple House. This also provided beer (which we utilised), meals and accommodation. We were surprised to find fairly large numbers walking the Lycian Way long distance footpath, which passes through Apelie.

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Campsite 1
Campsite 1

Our target for Day 2 was the region known as Kekova. This has become something of a tourist magnet with ancient ruins, a sunken city and a Byzantine Castle a pleasant boat trip from the east. Before we could experience the calm waters behind the isalnd we had to endure a stiff paddle into a force 3/4 wind and a rising swell. We eventually reached a small island with a rough landing, the first of the day. Typically it had a number of ancient ruins scattered over the hillside.

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Lunch with ruins
Lunch with ruins

The main selling point of Kekova is the “submerged city” and amongst the hundreds of motor vessels a number of commercial firms offer kayak trips to beginners that go over the site. Our experience was disappointing. Although the water was clear it was disturbed by the wind and reflected the strong sunlight. As a result we saw little and had to queue (!!) with the motor boats.

Far more impressive was the Byzantine fort in the village opposite.

 

Kale Castle
Kale Castle

Our access involved pushing through deep undergrowth, climbing the wall of an outlying tower, walking through a garden marked “Strictly Private” and “Dangerous Dog” and scaling a wall to get out, The fort itself was an amazing tribute to the absence of Health and Safety Inspectors in Turkey.

The village of Simena (Kale) is a landlocked maze, with tiny alleys connecting a motley connection of buildings. It is a wonderful place but time was pressing.

From Simena we paddled on east looking for potential landing/camping sites. Eventually we found a small beach with an ornate gate leading to a ruined farm. This provided level, if stony pitches and wood for a fire.

Entrance to Site
Entrance to Site
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Camp Site 2
View from Site
View from Site

Typically just above the farm was a ruined castle.

Castle above site
Castle above site

Our progress had been good and Day 3 was asssumed to be a more gentle affair. As ever there were a selection of caves to visit and some wonderful cliff scenery.

Inside a large Cave
Inside a large Cave

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Turkey 2013 038We paddled on to Andriake Beach for lunch where Hugh successfully pursued his desire for a fish sandwich and we had a couple of beers. Andriake is an important historic port with ancient temples and a huge intact grain warehouse built by Herod. It is also the port for Myre, the home town of Father Xmas (aka St Nicholas). We really ought to go back at some time to see it.

Typically during our prolonged lunch break the wind changed direction and grew in strength and the final leg from Andriake to Sukluku was something of a challenge.  However we were there is good time for our 4pm transfer.

The End of Part A
The End of Part A

Part B: Makivent to Cisali

 

partB

After a tortuous journey through urban/rural sprawl we arrived at a stony beach near Mavikent fringed by a couple of miles of shacks. Because it was growing dark we had little option but to camp in the rather dirty surroundings using rocks to secure the tents. However there was enough wood on the beach to have a good fire.

The morning was lovely. Beach camping offers fantastic views.

View from inside the tent
View from inside the tent
Camp at Makivent
Camp at Makivent

The crux of the trip was Cape Chalidon which threatened to be impassable in windy weather and we had had a lot of that. A deadline of 2pm was set as, at that time, the wind turns and blows around Force 4 from the south.

The morning was the best paddling of the trip with rock hopping, cave exploration and elevenses at the pretty, extremely quiet village of Ezgi (?)

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Another Huge Wonderful Cave

The light wind was at our backs as we pushed on to the Cape. As we came close it was clear from the surface water and reflected light that it was not as calm round the corner. Even then the wind strength  and swell size was far bigger than expected. A really tough 90 minutes ensued until we found a beach to rest up on.

We had been recommended the island of Solu Ada as a potential camp site and after a prolonged break this seemed a good target. Perhaps it should be mentioned that the recommendation came from someone who, we later found out,  had been stuck there for 3 days!

Approaching Solu Ada
Approaching Solu Ada

 

Solu Ada from the north
Solu Ada from the north

As we emerged from the shelter we were amazed to find that the wind had turned 180 degrees and was now blowing Force 3/4 from the south. This made for a very wet crossing.

There was mutual amazement from the 4 lads camping on the beach, who struggled to comprehend how 3 middle aged men could paddle such small craft to the island with all the necessary gear, and ourselves who had assumed that anybody there would have had a boat of some sort to get off.  Still there was no going back so we set off to pitch our tents only to be informed that a group of four goats liked to shower boulders on to the beach.

The island itself had a high ridge of sandy bouldery material running its length. There is an inaccessible spring located just beneath the ridge and the island is punctured by a tunnel.

The goats are on the ridge
The goats are on the ridge

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We were treated to the most wonderful of sunsets and a glorious sunrise.

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Dawn
Dawn

7 am was celebrated by a boulder shower which luckily avoided all the tents. A leisurely breakfast was then interrupted by a tourist boat on a dawn cruise. A chat with the captain suggested the other side of the island was not experiencing the calm of our side. So it proved as we pushed through the tunnel into a windy turbulent sea.

The Arch
The Arch
The Tunnel
The Tunnel

The next couple of hours was the usual mix of wonderful views, caves and cliff scenery.

Lunch Beach
Lunch Beach
Pine Forest typical of area
Pine Forest typical of area

Our lunch beach was backed by a lovely pine forest, heavily scented.

Later we came across the loveliest cave where a hole in the scenery allowed the sunshine through and turned the water the deepest of blues.

In the Cave
In the Cave
The Cave Entrance
The Cave Entrance

Landing places were  rare and the search for a potential camp site always a feature of late afternoon. Close examination of the Google Map suggested a potential site in an inlet and so it proved; a perfect clean beach backed by flat ground and a pine forest. We pulled up delighted. From a well hidden building a figure emerged. The only English he had seemed to be Problem. Problem, Problem he exclaimed repeatedly as we explained it was getting very late. Eventually we took the hint; this perfection was obtained by keeping all tourists out.  We then pushed on to the next inlet which was probably the dirtiest place in Turkey. Still we could land and there was flat ground once the broken glass and rubbish had been cleared. There was also wood for a fire.

In the dark as we settled down to cook around the fire our attention was caught by a growling/snuffling noise and movement in the dark. The torches caught something large in the undergrowth/trees which we were unable to identify. Anatolian Bear?? Inevitably the beast returned and delayed torch work revealed for a second a large wild boar plus piglet. Much less worrying.

The following morning, for the first time on the trip  was free of wind and we had a wonderful paddle on calm water in warm sunshine . Our first objective was the ancient city of Olympos. This extraordinary place had been completely covered in undergrowth until twenty years ago. It is now gradually being uncovered with temples, early Christian churches, theatres, bath houses, etc etc gradually being revealed.

 

The River at Olympus
The River at Olympus
Olympus
Olympus

The casual attitude to artefacts three thousand years old still surprises and is a big plus to the things you expect on a kayaking trip to Turkey; spectacular scenery, sun and warm water.

Our final hop took us along the lovely beach to a restaurant and our pick up spot.

Final Lap
Final Lap
The End
The End

Final Thoughts

The 4.5 hour journey back to Dalaman suggests that, at best, there is only one more expedition before returning to previous routes. The quality of past experiences, however, makes that a real possibility. The cost worked out at £735 for absolutely everything including airport parking, meals, drink, kayak hire, accommodation etc etc.

Conditions were not perfect this time out, but the water is warm so that even our day1 launch problems could be overcome with smiles. Again the trip is thoroughly recommended.

 

Ardlamont August 31st 2013

Paddlers: David, Mark, Innes, Jamie, Geoff

Weather: Windy, Bright with Sunny Periods

Route:

ardlamont

 

Report:  Ardlamont is notorious with sailors for cutting up rough in anything but a slight breeze. The forecast was for a Force4/5 westerly (18-21mph) but gusts were expected to be only 3 or 4 mph higher. The advice we had was to abandon or at least be prepared to abandon. However there are a number of escape points, even at the point itself, which mitigates any potential dangers and after due consideration we agreed to try it.

Launch Point at Portavadie
Launch Point at Portavadie

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Probably the roughest section was immediately after the launch at a beach by the ferry slip at Portavadie. More than one of us thought  this may be the place to get out. However we persisted and as we swung west and were pushed along by the strong wind at our backs, began to enjoy the trip, even if the following sea meant relaxing was impossible. In what seemed like a very short period (but was in fact over one and a half hours) we had covered 10km and were at our chosen lunch site Ardlamont Bay.

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The view from Ardlamont beach (note the white horses)
The view from Ardlamont beach (note the white horses)
Lunch in comfort
Lunch in comfort

Visitors for Lunch

David's New Boat
David’s New Boat

During lunch we came to the conclusion that the sea at the Point itself would be only a little worse than that we had already experienced. We felt it was, contrary to our initial beliefs,  going to be possible to safely kayak it. So it proved, despite a couple of big waves breaking over the boats.

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Paddling towards Tignabruich
Paddling towards Tignabruich
The End: Kames
The End: Kames

The paddle up the east side of the peninsular was uneventful if hard work. The wind coming through the hills provided keen opposition in places but we reached Kames in good time to meet Mrs C who ran us back over the hill to Portavadie to collect the car.

Conclusion:

Ardlamont is a key staging point on the Argyll Sea Kayaking Trail than runs from Dumbarton to Oban. An east west trip in a southerly or westerly Force 3 or above would be near impossible.  If our wind had been any further south it would have equally been impossible for us to get round from the west. Users of the Trail should be warned.

 

Ardnumurchan 21st-23rd August 2013

Paddlers: M.M., Hugh and Geoff Weather: Very Mixed; Glorious Sunshine, Torrential Rain, Calm and Windy. Route: ard8_13Map Description: The remote Ardnumurchan peninsular is the most westerly place on the British mainland and rounding the  headland is something of a target for all sea kayakers. Like all sea kayaking the feasibility is totally wind dependent and our conditions were excellent with a light southerly breeze and sunshine. We started towards the mouth of Loch Sunart at an easy launch point after a second car had been moved up to the finishing point on the other side of the peninsular. One of the difficulties is finding both camp sites and launch points and, in retrospect, a longer 4 day trip from Salen round to Ardtoe and Loch Moidart might have been better. The weather was overcast and the cliff scenery excellent. Two Sea Eagles circled overhead.

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Mingary Castle, which is found just before the village of Kilchoan, is the 13th century stronghold of the Clam McIain. It is owned by a Trust and is currently being restored with funds from the local landowner (Ardnumurchan Estates) and the National Lottery. When we arrived they had nearly completed scaffolding with scaffold poles and fittings made of stainless steel. When finished it will be a complete castle for let, presumably for historic weddings etc.  Web sites (e.g. http://www.mingarycastletrust.co.uk/mingarycastletrust/) give lots more information.

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We found a good campsite a km on with flat ground, a good supply of wood and no houses in the vicinity. During the evening the cloud lifted and although sea mist and fog was threatened none came over the camp site.

The Campsite looking towards Coll
The Campsite looking towards Coll
Moon and Fire
Moon and Fire

 

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Morning Mist from campsite

The mist that swirled around early on Thursday soon cleared and the sun soon illuminated the surrounds. A dominant feature of the trip was the high spring tide which generated very high highs and very low lows with a range of over 12 feet (4m). We originally intended to leave late to catch the north flowing tide but instead left early to ensure that we could float the boats from the beach, rather than carry them over slippy sharp rocks for 200m,  In fact the south flowing  tide had minimal impact relative to the southerly breeze that pushed us along a spectacular coastline towards the headland.

The cliffs were characterised by bands of rock, sometimes at rigth angles to each other
The cliffs were characterised by bands of rock, sometimes at right angles to each other

In  a couple of hours we reached the headland and lighthouse.

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Ardnamurchan Aug 13 010

The views were spectacular. Looking north  Muck, Rhum and Eigg  were in  the foreground with the Cuillins of Skye and Knoydart as the background. To the far west the Outer Hebrides were just visible and in the south west stood Coll. On days like this, there is nowhere better scenically.

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Boats marooned beneath lighthouse as tide dropped

After a long lunch break and exploration of the lighthouse and facilities we retrieved the boats from where they had been marooned by the rapidly dropping tide and paddled over to investigate Sanna Bay and identify potential camp sites.

Sanna Bay
Sanna Bay

By this time the tide was very low and any camp site would have required a carry of several hundred metres, so we went on to assess another potential site around the headland. In this case the sand beach was protected by a minefield of sharp rocks; OK at half tide and above but impossible at the current state. On again to another sand beach but on this occasion the rocks lay between the sand and the potential site. However there were some deep caves, known as the Glendrian Caves, to explore.

 

In the Glendrian Caves
In the Glendrian Caves

After this interlude the hunt for a site was really on. On the map, about 1km on, a path was shown descending the cliffs and this was taken as a possible site.  This proved correct although flat space was limited and firewood was non existent. However a fire was made using dried kelp and an enjoyable evening was had by all.

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Late evening

During the night the wind got up and by morning was gusting at around 20mph. As we finished breaking camp the rain started and the short distance we had to travel became a blessing. In fact the rain was intermittent and the wind gusty and, because of the high cliffs, came from all different directions and none. The cliffs were broken and a number of caves both shallow and deep apparent. It is excellent sea kayaking terrain.

ard8_13 035We arrived at Fascadale, our exit point, just after 10am in the pouring rain. Enthusiasm for continuing was limited and soon we set off back to the other car and then homewards.

Originally there were another 4 club members interested in the trip but for a variety of reasons they eventually could not make it. On the basis of our experience it is thoroughly recommended. It is a stunning and satisfying paddle worthy of the heather that marks a successful trip round Ardnurmurchan Point. Provided care is taken and the weather is OK it is suitable for paddlers of all abilities.

Caribbean Princess August 8th 2013

Paddlers: Geoff, Davod, Ross and Douglas

This was a hastily arranged afternoon trip in quiet weather to look at one of the giant liners now using Greenock. Depart about 2pm, arrive about 3, return via Fishery Protection Vessel Marina about 4.30pm. A good trip with some spectacular photos.

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Lismore 6/7th July 2013

Paddlers: David, Innes, Sue, Alan, Jamie, Douglas, Geoff

Objective: A circumnavigation of Lismore

lismore map

 

Saturday: The day started well with all paddlers at the Ganavan Beach, 2 miles north of Oban, before 10am. This is a excellent start point with a large shallow sandy beach and excellent parking (£2 per day).The weather was breezy mostly overcast but with occasional breaks. We had opted for Ganavan to make best use of tide and wind and so it proved. There was a big swell driven by a Force4 and it made for interesting paddling.

Departure at Ganavan
Departure at Ganavan

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Our first stop was for the Lismore Broch. Brochs are large circular towers with a hollow wall. They are found only in Scotland and are thought to be around 2000 years old. The Lismore Broch is well worth a visit if only for the stunning views.

Douglas takes photos from the Broch
Douglas takes photos from the Broch

We pushed on northwards with the weather becoming more and more threatening. Around the point we decided to camp at the site just at the point. However when we arrived we found another group of 14 erecting tents. After some discussion we decided to push on and try and find an alternative. In retrospect it was a blessing for the next bay not only contained flat (tish) ground but a wood supply (albeit difficult to access) in the surrounding woodlands. As the evening got increasingly wet, the fire proved the highlight.

Around the fire in the rain
Around the fire in the rain
The campsite
The campsite

Sunday: After a very wet evening the next morning dawned dry and bright. The view from the site was excellent with Glensanda prominent on the Morvern shore.  As agreed we made an early start (8.10) to catch the south flowing tide aiming to reach the southernmost point at 12.30; slack water.

On the way from the site
On the way from the site

The next stop was the spectacular Coefin Castle (ruins).

Coefin Castle
Coefin Castle

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Lismore trip July 13 154

The group in the castle
The group in the castle

The weather was constantly improving as we headed south. The headwind was dropping to negligible, the sun came out and dolphins/porpoise came to play. Seals looked on expectantly and an otter stopped and stared.  The cliffs revealed caves and gashes; this was what one hoped for.

Lismore trip July 13 168

After a break for inspection of yet another castle (Adachurn) and lunch we headed on for the point. As we reached the point at peak low water, there were two linked questions; 1)  can we get through behind the lighthouse island? 2) Do we want to if we can?. In the end we decided that round the light was more exciting and the gap probably does exist even at low tide.

David at Adachurn Castle
David at Adachurn Castle

The final decision was whether to paddle the 9k directly back to Ganavan or travel up the coast and jump across the islands. The direct route was chosen and some 1.5 hours after setting off we reached the beach.  Another excellent trip.

 

Loch Long Thursday 2nd July

Paddlers: Euan, Jamie, Geoff, Jim, Mark

Weather: Grey, cool but calm

Report: We met at the car park just north of Cove. The initial crossing was to the pier at Blairmore. It is sad that there is no service to the pier after spending quite considerable sums to rejuvenate it. With the closure of the hotels at Carrick Castle and Ardentinny and no water service the  future looks rather bleak for this part of Argyll and Bute.

Blairmore Pier
Blairmore Pier

We then headed north, passing the “new” wreck, landing just past the caravan park at Ardentinny for a quick break.

Time for a break
Time for a break

The uneventful last leg was  straight back across the loch to complete a 10 mile circuit.

 

 

River Leven and Canoe Camp

River Leven: Thursday 20th.

Paddlers (13) : Euan, Alex, Cory, Ross,  Adam, Michael, Oliver, Nat, Robin, Adele, Gregor, Grant, Geoff

Report: A good turnout on a dullish evening did the annual trip down the Leven. This year the flow was quite limited and in the lower reaches was completely negated by the incoming tide. As a consequence we took almost 2hr 30 mins. However there was enough water for an enjoyable experience and the rain held off.

Loch Lomond Saturday 22nd/Sunday 23rd

Paddlers (14): Cory, Ross,  Adam, Michael, Nat, Robin, Gregor, Grant, Stewart, Hannah , Eleanor, Stuart, Rachel, Geoff

The Main Group
The Main Group

Report: The weather forecast was not great with heavy rain and very strong winds on the Sunday. More than one person was expecting cancellation but, because of the relatively sheltered nature of the planned trip the decision was made to continue. Consequently the group gathered at 2pm and after the usual problems of beginners fitting their gear into boats, we set off for Inchconnachan for a wallaby hunt.

Fleet on the move
Fleet on the move

At the normal site the group split. Stewart, Geoff and Eleanor were lucky enough to spot one in the dense undergrowth, purely because it moved as we approached. There is one in the next photo.

Spot the Wallaby
Spot the Wallaby!

Despite the cloud cover it was dry and the views, as usual were fantastic

Down the loch from the Inchconnachan beach
Down the loch from the Inchconnachan beach
Stuart and Rachel
Stuart and Rachel

The weather stayed dry as we rounded InchConnachan and headed for our camp site on Inchvannach.

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On arrival tents were pitched, barbeques lit and a fire built and lit.  Nat and Robin erected their Gazebo which proved very popular when the rain arrived. Stewart and Geoff, meanwhile, erected a conical shelter over the fire.

After food Geoff, Stewart and Eleanor had a short trip to pick up Hannah. During this trip it began to rain very heavily and continued off and on throughout the evening and night. Despite the wet and because it was becoming horribly midgy,  most went out for an evening paddle getting back just as the light started to fail at 10.30. A late swim was undertaken by some. All had retreated to their tents by midnight.

The Sunday morning was bright and quite dry but blustery. We cooked breakfast and were off soon after 10am

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Departure from site
Departure from site

The paddle up through the narrows was fine but we exited straight into a north westerly wind blowing around force 4, occasionally gusting much higher. It was an important lesson that kayaking can be a challenge and that the Loch can be a very dangerous and unforgiving place. However all coped well (if slowly).

Because the wind was expected to increase during the day we had arranged to finish at 11am and duly got to Ardlochlay at 11.10. An excellent weekend.

 

Taransay and Loch Roag, June 2013

Paddlers: Geoff, Hugh and Jamie

Day1/2. Taransay

taransay2

 

We left Ard Asaig, a couple of miles west of Tarbet, at about 11.30 having caught the morning boat from Uig and over-nighted in a camp site by the ferry port at Uig. The weather was as forecast, cold and windy with the cloud almost down to the loch. The initial paddle to the lunch break on Isay was quite tough but after lunch we hit the main swell and force 5 winds. Just as we were contemplating retreat we spotted a rock beach and landed, hoping for the weather to ease. It did not and a tent was pitched for shelter. A shelter wall, firewood and a fire followed and by the time the wind eased (7pm) we had given up any idea of further progress.

the hills of Harris close to our departure point
The hills of Harris close to our departure point
The rock beach
The rock beach
Camp Site
Camp Site

Sunday morning was overcast and breezy but the crossing to Taransay appeared on. After a difficult launch as we made our way out between a wave break and the shore a large otter appeared, stared and disappeared.

Taransay was featured in the BBC series Castaway in which 30 people were landed on a deserted island for a year. The identified objective was to observe the development of a community.  The island is large, relatively fertile and has some beautiful sand beaches. Sheep are grazed over the whole island and there are a couple of summer holiday houses. All round it appears to be a very pleasant place.

Heading for Taransay
Heading for Taransay

 

 

Taransay
Taransay
Taransay Beach
Taransay Beach

Objective achieved we crossed to another lovely surf beach for lunch (nice bouncy entry and exit) and then back via Isay to the car for part 2 of the trip.

Day 3/4/5 Loch Roag 

Wild camping from the car was surprisingly difficult, but, after an hour driving around and a trip to Callanish Stone Circle  we found a lovely picnic site above a wonderful surf beach just north of Carloway.

Callanish
Callanish

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Evening at Dail Mor picnic site
Evening at Dail Mor picnic site

 

The camp site
The camp site

 

 

Our launch site was back towards Callanish. From here we headed out for a circuit of Great Bernera.

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Noticeable features of this area were the population of Great Bernera (apparently “cleared”  from the mainland in the 1870s), the extensive fish and mussel farms and the stunning sand beaches. Possibly the best of them was our lunch stop on Little Bernera.

Heading for Little Bernera Beach
Heading for Little Bernera Beach
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The Beach

 

Bernera Beach
Bernera Beach

After lunch we rounded the headland and into the sizeable Atlantic Swell. From there we headed to the channel between Great and Little Bernera before landing on yet another golden beach. The main interest at this beach was an Iron Age village which had lain undiscovered under a layer of sand until recently. A feature is a reconstructed house which, unfortunately was closed.

Iron Age House
Iron Age House

 After some debate a rock beach on the island of Floddaigh suggested a possible place for the night. As we left we were drawn towards a basking shrk that had apparently been in the area all afternoon. We were lucky enough to get a close inspection of the fish whose length was around 20ft.

Basking Shark
Basking Shark

Floddaigh was the nesting place for thousands of sea birds and care had to be taken not to tread on nests and newly born chicks. There was however a mass of wood, flat ground and a stunning sunset.

Fire and Cooking on Floddaigh
Fire and Cooking on Floddaigh
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Sunset

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The clear sky of the previous evening augured well for Tuesday. The first objective was the famous (among  keen sea kayakers) Pabbaigh Mor. As we approached a dolphin/porpoise decided to play in front of us.

The island proved to live up to its reputation. The first feature is a large sea cave but this was of minor interest compared to the stunning natural arch.

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The photos were taken at a quiet period. In fact the big swell at times generated a very exciting experience! We next sought out the entrance of the lagoon but after entering what looked like the entrance we decided the tide was probably too low so we opted for the south entrance. En route was a “gap” , confused and treacherous in the big swell. After a long period of contemplation sense won over challenge and we went round outside and then into the lagoon.

After the tumult outside the lagoon was amazing, with three lovely sand beaches and completely quiet water. It  also had a wide north entrance that we had missed.

A beach in the lagoon between Pabbaigh Mor and Beag
A beach in the lagoon between Pabbaigh Mor and Beag

 

 

We then decided to investigate the sand beach just 3km away at Camas Cliobh. This beach was totally open to the Atlantic so we expected some surf, but it appeared from the sea to be relatively small and canoeable. This was not the case. All of us were turned and Geoff ended up on the sand upside down.

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Hugh rides the surf (detail)

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Jamie views the surf
Jamie views the surf

We then spent the next 30 minutes trying to work out how best to get out. The shape, frequency and power of the surf and the resulting shape of the beach made exit problematic. Just as the kayak floated  it was hit by a wave, turned, filled with water and beached. What was required was a young flexible paddler who could get into the kayak after the initial wave break. Our hero was Jamie who towed the old men past the first break to allow them to escape and then managed to get his boat clear” and use the keyhole cockpit to get in. Once past the surf line his kayak was  pumped out and we were all clear.

After the excitement we paddled on the the township of Bhaltos which offered a telephone box and campsite in the way of services and two more glorious sand beaches.

Hugh and Jamie on boat at Bhaltos
Hugh and Jamie on boat at Bhaltos

 

The ideal campsite has a sand beach, flat turf immediately adjacent, good views and a wood supply. Unfortunately the first and last are very rare and we put the fire as a higher priority than soft entry and exit. So we choose the island of Fuaigh Beag for our final camp., a very satisfactory choice.

Campsite at Fuaigh
Campsite at Fuaigh
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View from Fuaigh Mor

 

The final morning was a quick paddle across the east side of Great Bernera under the bridge. and we reached the launch site at around 11pm. Sadly we found a side window had been smashed, possibly by a stone from the road. We suspect the police do not really believe this either but, in any case, they were extremely helpful and found us an autoglass agent who immediately fitted a temporary window for th long journey home. If it was deliberate the locals in Stornoway certainly tried to make up for the sins of their brethren and we safely caught the 4pm ferry from Tarbet. It was a beautiful crossing.

Tarbet
Tarbet
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The Paddlers

 

 

With wonderful weather the route back must be the most glorious drive in the UK. crossing/passing  five wonderful mountain ranges; The Harris Hills, The Cuillins,  Glen Shiel, Ben Nevis and the Grey Corries and finally Glencoe. IT was a fitting end to an excellent trip.